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  • exhaust mod?

    i remember seeing this somewhere, where you cut the weld for the 3 allen screws and remove some baffling. is there a how to on this?
    Sebimoto Carbonfiber Bodywork, Zero Gravity D/B dark tinted screen, Carbo tech C/F frame guards, C/F look levers, black Spider grips, M4 Full system (alum), PC2, Light tech C/F mirrors, GeeLong C/F tank protector, 520 Conversion W/ Gold RK chain and 16/40 stealth sprockets, Pedros Gear Position Indicator, Fan switch, Airbox lid.....REMOVED, Probolt Fasteners all Gold. Spare Set of AMA's Larry Pegram #72 bodywork, Gold clear clutch cover, Galfer rear wave rotor, Pro-Tek Rearsets, Flycal6 quick release tank and seat pins, in the black frame club, Vandrivers coerce style sprocket guard, and a killer TLR keychain

  • #2
    anybody?
    Sebimoto Carbonfiber Bodywork, Zero Gravity D/B dark tinted screen, Carbo tech C/F frame guards, C/F look levers, black Spider grips, M4 Full system (alum), PC2, Light tech C/F mirrors, GeeLong C/F tank protector, 520 Conversion W/ Gold RK chain and 16/40 stealth sprockets, Pedros Gear Position Indicator, Fan switch, Airbox lid.....REMOVED, Probolt Fasteners all Gold. Spare Set of AMA's Larry Pegram #72 bodywork, Gold clear clutch cover, Galfer rear wave rotor, Pro-Tek Rearsets, Flycal6 quick release tank and seat pins, in the black frame club, Vandrivers coerce style sprocket guard, and a killer TLR keychain

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    • #3
      Yeah but I wouldnt bother. Stock cans arent cheap, best to keep em that way find a cheap used set or something. I don't know what your cops are like over there but I've been done twice and had to put the stockers back on to have the defect removed. Anyway your right, you take out hte allen head bolt and knock out he baffles with a hammer and a piece of pipe. Dont think they'd sound anywhere as good as the real deal tho.

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      • #4
        Save up and buy slipons. If you gt tagged for aftermarket cans you can put the old ones back on.. I still got mine.
        I've got a huge penis, You've got a huge penis, even Tim over there, yup you guessed it, huge penis. Good, now that that's out of the way, let's go ride

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        • #5
          cut the welds on the three allen bolts and remove them..next take a torch(if you're lucky) or a dremel with a small cutting wheel and cut around the protruding pipe about 1 inch,after that cut from inside the pipe about 1 inch deep. Don't insert dremel any further,you start getting into the thicker parts of the baffle and you'll never get it out. When you're done you should have about a 3" opening where there used to be a 1". Make sure you have a ton of those little dremel discs before you start,they break easy.Sounds a lot better than stock and should hold you over until you can get pipes,works for me

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          • #6
            DO NOT DO IT!!!! I had a friend do it and he lost all sorts of power.... Sounds good but no power....
            YES it's a V-twin... NO it's not a harley...

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            • #7
              oh ok. that conviced me!!!!!
              Sebimoto Carbonfiber Bodywork, Zero Gravity D/B dark tinted screen, Carbo tech C/F frame guards, C/F look levers, black Spider grips, M4 Full system (alum), PC2, Light tech C/F mirrors, GeeLong C/F tank protector, 520 Conversion W/ Gold RK chain and 16/40 stealth sprockets, Pedros Gear Position Indicator, Fan switch, Airbox lid.....REMOVED, Probolt Fasteners all Gold. Spare Set of AMA's Larry Pegram #72 bodywork, Gold clear clutch cover, Galfer rear wave rotor, Pro-Tek Rearsets, Flycal6 quick release tank and seat pins, in the black frame club, Vandrivers coerce style sprocket guard, and a killer TLR keychain

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              • #8
                Originally posted by wazburn
                DO NOT DO IT!!!! I had a friend do it and he lost all sorts of power.... Sounds good but no power....


                The reason he lost power because there is no back pressure in the exaust it is basicly a straight pipe after that mod.

                Dont do it just save your cash and get pipes.
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                • #9
                  I'm with them no need for a loss in power, as far as cops go, we in Texas have no noise limit imposed on us as to how loud our exhaust can be. You can technically run straight pipes like a hardley and be within the law.

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                  • #10
                    Ahhhh, Texas the home of M4 and my birthplace, good ol El Paso

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by wazburn
                      DO NOT DO IT!!!! I had a friend do it and he lost all sorts of power.... Sounds good but no power....
                      I used a cutting torch and removed the material inside the pipe and it sounds good. I had my bike dynoed with yosh box after that at 109.9hp and 71 ft pounds or tq. I would do that and save for a full system
                      Everyone dies but not everyone lives

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                      • #12
                        Hey TL4LIFE, my brother just moved to Indianapolis from Italy, I think he's teaching ROTC there or something. I'm planning a trip up there for next summer, maybe we can hook up for a ride or something with alcohol involved.

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                        • #13
                          Jason...I didn't hollow my pipes all the way out,I just enlarged the exit hole so now it's the size of the chrome cap. I lost no power at all,still hit's second gear wheelies and sounds a lot better.

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                          • #14
                            Re: exhaust mod?

                            I removed the chrome caps and cut the end of the can out, the whole was about 3" in diameter and made a big difference in sound, maybe a little too loud, If you are going to try this i would reccommend Starting with the smallest diameter. It will be easier to cut mor than to add it back.

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                            • #15
                              Re: exhaust mod?

                              Jason, send the cans to me and I'll gut them and put in straight cores and decent packing. It'll be loud but it's ok.

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