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  • Restoring a long unused TLR

    Hi All,

    New to the TLR, had always loved them back when they first came out. Had the opportunity to pick one up which hasn't been used since 2002ish,
    It's missing a few bits:
    *battery cover*
    *battery cover fairing*
    *Steering Dampner*
    *Keys* as well as the bolts holding the tank down, and most of the fairing screws.

    I assume most of those wandered off while it was prepped for storage and may pop up, but, looking for recommendations beyond Ebay to source the parts. I'd like to keep the bike looking at stock as possible, but I'm not worried about the batter mount.

    The Fuel pump seal did leak, so the fuel was drained. Rest of the bike was stored dry so i'll be making my way through it to replace the fuel lines, coolant lines and any other aged rubber lines. Plan to send the injectors off to get them cleaned / new pintle caps and orings, plan on replacing the fuel filter with an external one as well.

    Any other gotchas I should look for before starting to put it back together?

    Thanks!

  • #2
    OEM parts in the jolly old US of A can be found from Ron Ayers.

    Was the bike properly laid up, eg. oil and filter changed, teaspoon of oil down each bore?


    '97 TL1000S Streetfighter 'Evil Twin' - BBOTM May 2015 - click here for full colour wiring diagrams

    Comment


    • #3
      Congrats on finding a fairly clean '99 TLR!

      Another good source for OEM parts is https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/#&panel1-3

      However, fairing panels and tanks are becoming rare and increasingly expensive.

      If you intend to keep this TL, you will want to consider these mods for the sake of reliability. It is well known that the TL's electrical system has a few issues. Use the search feature to read up on any of them. There is a thread or two on each of them in the Frequent TL Mods Forum.

      Charging Mod
      Headlight Relay Mod
      Plus (+) Mod


      While it is apart even now, you will want to inspect the connection of the negative battery cable where it attaches to the engine case (just above the front sprocket). Corrosion can form at that point. Disconnect it and make sure it is nice and clean.

      Also, at that same point is where the main loom ground wire attaches. It is a 14 gauge Black/Wht wire. A few inches from that ring terminal you will find a single spade connector. It is a problem just waiting to happen. Cut it out and solder the wires together directly. Personally, I replaced the entire wire on mine with a heavier gauge all the way up into the loom where it joins the network of ground wires, but that is probably not necessary. The real problem area is the poor connection at the spade terminal. You will see threads discussing the Grounding Mod which describe the addition of other wires. However, if the rest of the loom is in good shape, this is the only ground improvement you will need.

      Be sure to post up your progress.................because the forum has been pretty dead lately. We need some activity!
      January 2012 - BBOTM & TLOTM

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Six5 View Post
        Congrats on finding a fairly clean '99 TLR!

        Another good source for OEM parts is https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/#&panel1-3

        However, fairing panels and tanks are becoming rare and increasingly expensive.

        If you intend to keep this TL, you will want to consider these mods for the sake of reliability. It is well known that the TL's electrical system has a few issues. Use the search feature to read up on any of them. There is a thread or two on each of them in the Frequent TL Mods Forum.

        Charging Mod
        Headlight Relay Mod
        Plus (+) Mod


        While it is apart even now, you will want to inspect the connection of the negative battery cable where it attaches to the engine case (just above the front sprocket). Corrosion can form at that point. Disconnect it and make sure it is nice and clean.

        Also, at that same point is where the main loom ground wire attaches. It is a 14 gauge Black/Wht wire. A few inches from that ring terminal you will find a single spade connector. It is a problem just waiting to happen. Cut it out and solder the wires together directly. Personally, I replaced the entire wire on mine with a heavier gauge all the way up into the loom where it joins the network of ground wires, but that is probably not necessary. The real problem area is the poor connection at the spade terminal. You will see threads discussing the Grounding Mod which describe the addition of other wires. However, if the rest of the loom is in good shape, this is the only ground improvement you will need.

        Be sure to post up your progress.................because the forum has been pretty dead lately. We need some activity!
        Thanks!, unfortunately I wonít be bringing much life quickly- the basement itís sitting in in the the pictures is about to be turned into an accessory apartment , and Iím doing all the work on that solo.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by CrashB View Post
          OEM parts in the jolly old US of A can be found from Ron Ayers.

          Was the bike properly laid up, eg. oil and filter changed, teaspoon of oil down each bore?
          It was stored dry- no fluids except for clutch and brake fluids. I intend to pull the plugs, shoot some mystery oil in and then fog each cylinder before turning it over. Iím also expecting some dried out gaskets and seals to fail. Once itís full of oil probably turn it over a bit starter only and spread some oil around.

          Currently unsure of of the mileage on it- but- it was only on the road for 3 years and we have relatively short riding seasons up here, so Iím not expecting a ton of miles on it.

          Comment


          • #6
            My main concern would be the state of the bores after sitting unused for 15 years without being properly laid up! I would expect to end up replacing every pipe and gasket on the bike and budget for it. If you are planning a full rebuild and restoration please take lots and lots of photographs documenting what state stuff is in after 15 years, it will be fascinating


            '97 TL1000S Streetfighter 'Evil Twin' - BBOTM May 2015 - click here for full colour wiring diagrams

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by CrashB View Post
              My main concern would be the state of the bores after sitting unused for 15 years without being properly laid up! I would expect to end up replacing every pipe and gasket on the bike and budget for it. If you are planning a full rebuild and restoration please take lots and lots of photographs documenting what state stuff is in after 15 years, it will be fascinating
              No doubt, When I picked it up, price was based on the assumption that I'd be taking all the way down and doing significant work on it. I'll start with a bore scope and some ATF fluid in the bores to try to free up the piston rings prior to moving them. If they're rusted significantly I'll probably just pull them off and see if I can get a machine shop to give them a light hone and some new piston rings. Worst case - take the motor apart and give it a molasses bath over the next month and then rebuild it. Honestly, over 15 years if I was going to have rust issues, I don't think fogging the cylinders would have done much for me.

              On the plus side, being stored in a relatively temperature stable garage should minimize the condensation - hopefully it's all pretty clean.

              on the short list, the clutch slave and rear brake master will both likely need a rebuild as they're sticking. I've seen mention of a clutch rod seal, so assuming I'll be doing that.

              Given the advance notice of the fuel tank leak, part of me wants to slab it up with PR-1422 aviation fuel tank sealant and give that a go. It's got an operation range from -65 to 250 degrees and will cover pretty decent gaps. It's probably close to $100 in material to do it, but would rather not have to worry about it again.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Tuckntruck View Post
                ...... I'll start with a bore scope and some ATF fluid in the bores to try to free up the piston rings prior to moving them. If they're rusted significantly I'll probably just pull them off and see if I can get a machine shop to give them a light hone and some new piston rings. ......
                If you get to that point, the experts say, 'don't hone the Nikasil plated cylinders.'

                http://www.tlzone.net/forums/motor-t...ton-rings.html

                January 2012 - BBOTM & TLOTM

                Comment


                • #9
                  Had a bit of time this evening to start pulling things apart-

                  without the key, it was mildly inconvenient getting into the hump, once in discovered a wonderfully flush mouse nest -awesome- the manual and tool bag. Surprising the manual and tool bag were largely intact, just covered in mouse piss- off to the circular file for those.

                  also discovered an alarm system, but, with no key itís pointless. Iíve honestly never had good luck with 3rd party alarms. The only thing theyíve ever done for me, was get me stranded. Removed the alarm, Iíll splice and solder where the vampire taps were spliced into the turn and brake lights to prevent corrosion.

                  Next up- pulled the tank off. The fuel pump gasket had leaked at one point, so the tank was drained. Luckily though, it appears the PO never got further than draining the fuel in the tank. By the looks of it, the bike was stored with about 1/2-3/4 of a tank of gas, thereís a varnish line in the tank, but no rust.

                  Fuel pump lump gasket will need to be replaced, old one is dried and brittle. Iím hoping that careful torque of the bolts and a new gasket will work (for a while at least).

                  So so far I havenít found any corrosion, which Iím thankful for.

                  Tomorrow the plan plan is to pull the radiators, and start removing all of the vacuum lines and fuel lines for replacement. A set of gaffers front, rear, and clutch hydraulic lines should be showing up soon, to go with master cyl. Rebuild kits for all three. The clutch ďworksĒ but has black fluid and a sticky feeling to it/the slave. The front brakes feel fine, but, not risking those. The rear brake master is shot and develops no pressure. It was seized when I picked it up and now moves, but doesnít work.

                  It it also appears that the headlights have a modulator installed. Curious to see if that works, or I may just pull that out as well.

                  Wonder if anybody has a suggestion for removing the ignition cylinder/lock. Iíve ordered a replacement key set, fuel cap and tail lock (cheaper than getting a new key cut from the bike)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Tuckntruck View Post
                    .....
                    Wonder if anybody has a suggestion for removing the ignition cylinder/lock. Iíve ordered a replacement key set, fuel cap and tail lock (cheaper than getting a new key cut from the bike)
                    You will need a T-40 'Safety' Torx bit to remove the ignition lock from the upper triple. The OEM build has a good amount of red Loctite on those two screws, so don't expect them to turn easily.

                    Once the switch is removed, the cap retaining the lock cylinder can be remove via two Phillips screws. Normally, you would have the key inserted when the cylinder is removed from the switch barrel to prevent the tumbler/discs and springs from flying away. Just be careful monitor the tumbler/discs as you remove the cylinder.

                    Then do the cylinder swap. Lube it with some spray silicone, and put it back together.



                    January 2012 - BBOTM & TLOTM

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      [subscribed]

                      Brainless AT earthling DOT net
                      "Take 2 plugs off your Gixxer and it'll sound the same"

                      *IMWO = In My Worthless Opinion
                      Q2 and Q4's mod list and Albums

                      History of Q2

                      Q1 Build thread
                      Q4 build thread

                      Installing Brainless' +Mod Kit -- (Where to buy)
                      Starter Relay/Solenoid CONNECTOR Replacement -- (Where to buy)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        15D92075-D42D-4E7D-8FBF-2B7907370FB8.jpeg Battery showed up today, expecting the locksets to arrive tomorrow, hopefully then I can get it powered up and give a functional check to most of the electrical bits.

                        No pictures, but, itís been filled with oil and a new filter for now.

                        Bottle of Brake fluid waiting for the new lines and rebuilds, also have a borescope on its way for tomorrow. Should get a nice look at the cylinders.

                        If if it shows up late in the evening I wonít get to it until next week though, off to okemo for a work skiing event thing.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Tuckntruck View Post
                          15D92075-D42D-4E7D-8FBF-2B7907370FB8.jpeg Battery showed up today, expecting the locksets to arrive tomorrow, hopefully then I can get it powered up and give a functional check to most of the electrical bits.

                          No pictures, but, itís been filled with oil and a new filter for now.

                          Bottle of Brake fluid waiting for the new lines and rebuilds, also have a borescope on its way for tomorrow. Should get a nice look at the cylinders.

                          If if it shows up late in the evening I wonít get to it until next week though, off to okemo for a work skiing event thing.
                          Thanks for bringing her back to Life!!!
                          www.sportbiketracktime.com
                          Southern Division Coach

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            That lithium battery will seriously blow your mind...

                            That featherweight son of a bitch moves 500cc pistons like a boss...
                            ... Listen to Six5 ...

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I'd pour a half can of sea foam in the tank, then the other half in the crank.

                              crank and fire...

                              let it heat up under high idle.
                              run it to redline a few times.
                              drive it around the block.
                              change the filter and oil.
                              drive....
                              ... Listen to Six5 ...

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