Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Restoring a long unused TLR

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Restoring a long unused TLR

    Hi All,

    New to the TLR, had always loved them back when they first came out. Had the opportunity to pick one up which hasn't been used since 2002ish,
    It's missing a few bits:
    *battery cover*
    *battery cover fairing*
    *Steering Dampner*
    *Keys* as well as the bolts holding the tank down, and most of the fairing screws.

    I assume most of those wandered off while it was prepped for storage and may pop up, but, looking for recommendations beyond Ebay to source the parts. I'd like to keep the bike looking at stock as possible, but I'm not worried about the batter mount.

    The Fuel pump seal did leak, so the fuel was drained. Rest of the bike was stored dry so i'll be making my way through it to replace the fuel lines, coolant lines and any other aged rubber lines. Plan to send the injectors off to get them cleaned / new pintle caps and orings, plan on replacing the fuel filter with an external one as well.

    Any other gotchas I should look for before starting to put it back together?

    Thanks!

  • #2
    OEM parts in the jolly old US of A can be found from Ron Ayers.

    Was the bike properly laid up, eg. oil and filter changed, teaspoon of oil down each bore?


    '97 TL1000S Streetfighter 'Evil Twin' - BBOTM May 2015 - click here for full colour wiring diagrams

    Comment


    • #3
      Congrats on finding a fairly clean '99 TLR!

      Another good source for OEM parts is https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/#&panel1-3

      However, fairing panels and tanks are becoming rare and increasingly expensive.

      If you intend to keep this TL, you will want to consider these mods for the sake of reliability. It is well known that the TL's electrical system has a few issues. Use the search feature to read up on any of them. There is a thread or two on each of them in the Frequent TL Mods Forum.

      Charging Mod
      Headlight Relay Mod
      Plus (+) Mod


      While it is apart even now, you will want to inspect the connection of the negative battery cable where it attaches to the engine case (just above the front sprocket). Corrosion can form at that point. Disconnect it and make sure it is nice and clean.

      Also, at that same point is where the main loom ground wire attaches. It is a 14 gauge Black/Wht wire. A few inches from that ring terminal you will find a single spade connector. It is a problem just waiting to happen. Cut it out and solder the wires together directly. Personally, I replaced the entire wire on mine with a heavier gauge all the way up into the loom where it joins the network of ground wires, but that is probably not necessary. The real problem area is the poor connection at the spade terminal. You will see threads discussing the Grounding Mod which describe the addition of other wires. However, if the rest of the loom is in good shape, this is the only ground improvement you will need.

      Be sure to post up your progress.................because the forum has been pretty dead lately. We need some activity!
      January 2012 - BBOTM & TLOTM

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Six5 View Post
        Congrats on finding a fairly clean '99 TLR!

        Another good source for OEM parts is https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/#&panel1-3

        However, fairing panels and tanks are becoming rare and increasingly expensive.

        If you intend to keep this TL, you will want to consider these mods for the sake of reliability. It is well known that the TL's electrical system has a few issues. Use the search feature to read up on any of them. There is a thread or two on each of them in the Frequent TL Mods Forum.

        Charging Mod
        Headlight Relay Mod
        Plus (+) Mod


        While it is apart even now, you will want to inspect the connection of the negative battery cable where it attaches to the engine case (just above the front sprocket). Corrosion can form at that point. Disconnect it and make sure it is nice and clean.

        Also, at that same point is where the main loom ground wire attaches. It is a 14 gauge Black/Wht wire. A few inches from that ring terminal you will find a single spade connector. It is a problem just waiting to happen. Cut it out and solder the wires together directly. Personally, I replaced the entire wire on mine with a heavier gauge all the way up into the loom where it joins the network of ground wires, but that is probably not necessary. The real problem area is the poor connection at the spade terminal. You will see threads discussing the Grounding Mod which describe the addition of other wires. However, if the rest of the loom is in good shape, this is the only ground improvement you will need.

        Be sure to post up your progress.................because the forum has been pretty dead lately. We need some activity!
        Thanks!, unfortunately I wonít be bringing much life quickly- the basement itís sitting in in the the pictures is about to be turned into an accessory apartment , and Iím doing all the work on that solo.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by CrashB View Post
          OEM parts in the jolly old US of A can be found from Ron Ayers.

          Was the bike properly laid up, eg. oil and filter changed, teaspoon of oil down each bore?
          It was stored dry- no fluids except for clutch and brake fluids. I intend to pull the plugs, shoot some mystery oil in and then fog each cylinder before turning it over. Iím also expecting some dried out gaskets and seals to fail. Once itís full of oil probably turn it over a bit starter only and spread some oil around.

          Currently unsure of of the mileage on it- but- it was only on the road for 3 years and we have relatively short riding seasons up here, so Iím not expecting a ton of miles on it.

          Comment


          • #6
            My main concern would be the state of the bores after sitting unused for 15 years without being properly laid up! I would expect to end up replacing every pipe and gasket on the bike and budget for it. If you are planning a full rebuild and restoration please take lots and lots of photographs documenting what state stuff is in after 15 years, it will be fascinating


            '97 TL1000S Streetfighter 'Evil Twin' - BBOTM May 2015 - click here for full colour wiring diagrams

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by CrashB View Post
              My main concern would be the state of the bores after sitting unused for 15 years without being properly laid up! I would expect to end up replacing every pipe and gasket on the bike and budget for it. If you are planning a full rebuild and restoration please take lots and lots of photographs documenting what state stuff is in after 15 years, it will be fascinating
              No doubt, When I picked it up, price was based on the assumption that I'd be taking all the way down and doing significant work on it. I'll start with a bore scope and some ATF fluid in the bores to try to free up the piston rings prior to moving them. If they're rusted significantly I'll probably just pull them off and see if I can get a machine shop to give them a light hone and some new piston rings. Worst case - take the motor apart and give it a molasses bath over the next month and then rebuild it. Honestly, over 15 years if I was going to have rust issues, I don't think fogging the cylinders would have done much for me.

              On the plus side, being stored in a relatively temperature stable garage should minimize the condensation - hopefully it's all pretty clean.

              on the short list, the clutch slave and rear brake master will both likely need a rebuild as they're sticking. I've seen mention of a clutch rod seal, so assuming I'll be doing that.

              Given the advance notice of the fuel tank leak, part of me wants to slab it up with PR-1422 aviation fuel tank sealant and give that a go. It's got an operation range from -65 to 250 degrees and will cover pretty decent gaps. It's probably close to $100 in material to do it, but would rather not have to worry about it again.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Tuckntruck View Post
                ...... I'll start with a bore scope and some ATF fluid in the bores to try to free up the piston rings prior to moving them. If they're rusted significantly I'll probably just pull them off and see if I can get a machine shop to give them a light hone and some new piston rings. ......
                If you get to that point, the experts say, 'don't hone the Nikasil plated cylinders.'

                http://www.tlzone.net/forums/motor-t...ton-rings.html

                January 2012 - BBOTM & TLOTM

                Comment

                Working...
                X