Restoring a long unused TLR

[Ashton81]

Put standard 10w40 mc oil in before putting on filter fill it up with oil let the oil soak into the filter and then put filter on helps get oil pumped up faster. Something my dad taught me when doing oil changes... also pull valve covers off and pour oil on the cams and valve springs.

[Tuckntruck]

Had a bit more time to work on the bike today, new fuel filter, put the boot back on, cleaned up the fuel pump gasket mating surfaces and gave them a rough “true” check. All the screw holes are flat, so hopefully I get lucky for another few years. Put on a new gasket, with new bolts. Used a torque wrench for my pedal bike to dial in 4nm.

I ordered a cheap ish lockset from eBay, but don’t like the connection for the ignition, so I’m taking the steering head off to go get a key cut from the lock and will retain the oem key set.

New Galfers lines came in, as well as master rebuild kits for the brakes and clutch. Also a clutch slave rebuild kit. Not 100% positive what I’m going to do with the brake calipers yet. They seem to be in decent condition, undecided if I’ll rebuild it.

Pulled the the air box off to start replacing and inspecting vacuum lines etc.

also so put a note scope in the jugs, cylinder walls were bright and smooth. For some odd reason the only pulicture that saved was the top of the piston- and the battery is dead on the scope - there’s more carbon then I would expect on the piston, especially #2. Do these bikes tend to run rich?

also in the mix a complete fairing bolt kit and some other odds n ends. 76CD47B4-63AD-4878-BB68-E892994E3ABF.jpeg924158AC-1DF3-4DF8-89FD-804A4DF93AE9.jpegB194E147-6932-4892-BBBA-5E5C92170FF8.jpeg0F386BA9-85BB-4A63-ABB7-BF0E3D1E5CBB.jpeg35504BAF-D739-4896-82FF-2CA033FD4C32.jpeg96FD9D62-1DA5-485B-A3B5-2DE390A1972D.jpeg607CA2B7-8219-45E3-B739-4ABF39FCCC7E.jpeg

[Six5]

Making good progress.

[Tuckntruck]

Whelp- looks like 17 years of sitting has done in the fuel pump. Good voltage from the relay for prime, and it (the relay)makes the appropriate noises... no noises from the pump, and no fuel out the return line.


Positive note- no leak from the fuel pump gasket!

[Tuckntruck]

Continuing on,

replaced the fuel pump, ended up switching to an external filter as I was back in the tank again.

pulled the fuel rails and injector manifold. Enough molasses in there that I’m not even going to bother seeing they work.

Injectors are off to injector rehab in Nj (used them before with great results)

manifolds going into the parts cleaner- with another order for crush washers.

whats the best way to test the fuel pressure regulator (if any) off the bike? By the looks, I’m guessing it won’t open until base PSI is met. The vacuum port I’m assuming alleviates some of the diaphragm pressure at high vacuum (idle) and released it at low vacuum (WOT) which provides more fuel pressure at WOT... not sure if that would help enough to “blow through” the regulator. 1DCC1C1E-FF4F-457B-923C-75A7C81E2FDD.jpeg0E2D5A68-7FDB-46CD-8C1F-F06117358B22.jpeg9D3DDDC7-1545-440D-937A-D54FC3F5802F.jpeg36A28428-485D-4CB5-BD7B-43C7A9F74DB2.jpeg7E9E4E70-08BB-437F-B0D1-E15C5E098AED.jpeg64FC5E28-F68C-4402-8227-714AB7CB6B91.jpeg

[Six5]

....
whats the best way to test the fuel pressure regulator (if any) off the bike? By the looks, I’m guessing it won’t open until base PSI is met. The vacuum port I’m assuming alleviates some of the diaphragm pressure at high vacuum (idle) and released it at low vacuum (WOT) which provides more fuel pressure at WOT... not sure if that would help enough to “blow through” the regulator. .....

The fuel pressure regulator should open at 41~42 psi. It can be tested with compressed air, but let the pressure build slowly. In other words, avoid blasting it with 120 psi.

The vacuum port is there as a reference pressure. The system is design to maintain a fuel pressure at ~42 psi above the intake manifold pressure. In doing so, it maintains a relatively constant pressure differential across the injectors for uniform fuel delivery at various RPMs. Remember, in the OEM configuration, the amount of fuel delivered to the intakes is controlled by the duration of the injector pulse, not the pressure applied to the fuel rail.

[Tuckntruck]

Remember, in the OEM configuration, the amount of fuel delivered to the intakes is controlled by the duration of the injector pulse, not the pressure applied to the fuel rail.

Right, the injector flow is a function of pulse width, fuel density, pressure, ambient pressure and system voltage. I haven’t dug into it much, but, without an airflow or pressure sensor I expect that the bike is running a simple speed/density fuel program- which typically suffer from acceleration lag issues - in a sense the target FPR is 42psi above manifold, if you go from idle to WOT and just wack it open though the fuel system can lag depending on the acceleration enrich setting. I’d bet if you watch a pressure gauge on a running bike, smack the throttle open and you’ll initially see it jump by a few PSI more to make sure the injectors have adequate fuel, not to provide accel enrichment.

Anyways, seems like mine is working, think I’ll probably run a cleaning solution through it though (fuel and return side at pressure).

it was surprising how sticky the rest of the rail was. Guess that’s what 16 year old gas does.

[Tuckntruck]

Got my injectors back today, all 4 we’re stuck closed. O flow/ no spray pattern observed. They came back clean and all flowing pretty much dead even which is pretty rare in my experience with old gummy injectors. Anyways, plugged them in, put the rail back together gassed it up and poof! Started right up. She wasn’t too happy as I didn’t bother to hook up the IAT sensor, but that’ll be fixed as soon as I put the air box back. 7D9DC106-08B5-42F0-A5B9-693C57622953.jpeg8C6F9945-BBC3-41DF-A16E-6752D2AB507F.jpeg

https://youtu.be/95EmZCPqma0

[Tuckntruck]

One of the missing parts on the bike was the OEM steering dampener. eBay has plenty of OEM ones, however I assume that most of them are played out and probably not great anymore.

Does anybody have have personal preference regarding aftermarket options? Or should I just get an ohlins and not worry about it

[Jeff]

I hope you used gas line rated for use submerged in gasoline to replace the fuel filter in the tank. If not now's a good time to replace it with the proper stuff to avoid problems down the road.

You can use an old damper. Just replace the old oil and if it' snot leaking you're good to go. Was a fairly common thing back when the TL was young. Nothing wrong with an aftermarket unit though.

[Tuckntruck]

I hope you used gas line rated for use submerged in gasoline to replace the fuel filter in the tank. If not now's a good time to replace it with the proper stuff to avoid problems down the road.

You can use an old damper. Just replace the old oil and if it' snot leaking you're good to go. Was a fairly common thing back when the TL was young. Nothing wrong with an aftermarket unit though.

yep, submersible rated gates fuel line in the tank, standard fuel injector line external.

[Jeff]

[drH]

Looking great. looks like you're doing all of it right. No hack-job here

[Tuckntruck]

Unfortunately I’ve only been able to grab a few spare minutes at a time to work on it-

anyways, brake and clutch hydraulic systems finally rebuilt with new lines (and all working) clutch slave push rod seal replaced. I was having issues with idle, and the motor was lean sneezing / stalling on me. After lots of checking the FPR/Pump I went to pull the airbox again and noticed that I apparently forgot to hook up one of the vacuum lines to one of the solenoids... lean condition easily explained.

Gave me the bike a wash, and with that a no start for the next two days. The starter dues relay was dry and clean. Plugs were covered in gas, Spark was super weak though. I reseated the coil leads after a shot of electrical contact cleaner to move any water out of the way and pulled the return line off the tank and cycled the pump a few times in case water had gotten in the tank. Put it back together and she started up.

Im guessing it was electrical. Notice that the speedo lights kind of flicker, so I’m also expecting come dirty wires in that big cluster going into the instrument cluster... or maybe it’s just an old bulb.

Put some Opt7 LEDs in the headlight, removed the modulator. The bulbs will throw some glare, but I have no intention of riding at night, so I can live with that.

For it now she’s all buttoned up. Time to register and then wait patiently for the street sweeps to clean all the sand off the roads. EB9FFCF1-BAE3-412F-B119-036BF15C2A23.jpeg

[Six5]

.....
Notice that the speedo lights kind of flicker, so I’m also expecting come dirty wires in that big cluster going into the instrument cluster... or maybe it’s just an old bulb.
....

Also have a look at the Orange wire to Black/Red wire transition in the Large White Gang Connector (LWGC), and the Gray wire and Orange/Green wire that are connected to a loop in the Black Gang Connector leading to the RH switch pod. They are all connections in the path of the lighting circuit, and they have caused problems in the past. If they are not burned, clean the terminals the best you can. (WD-40 and a toothbrush......)