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Restoring a long unused TLR

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  • Tuckntruck
    started a topic Restoring a long unused TLR

    Restoring a long unused TLR

    Hi All,

    New to the TLR, had always loved them back when they first came out. Had the opportunity to pick one up which hasn't been used since 2002ish,
    It's missing a few bits:
    *battery cover*
    *battery cover fairing*
    *Steering Dampner*
    *Keys* as well as the bolts holding the tank down, and most of the fairing screws.

    I assume most of those wandered off while it was prepped for storage and may pop up, but, looking for recommendations beyond Ebay to source the parts. I'd like to keep the bike looking at stock as possible, but I'm not worried about the batter mount.

    The Fuel pump seal did leak, so the fuel was drained. Rest of the bike was stored dry so i'll be making my way through it to replace the fuel lines, coolant lines and any other aged rubber lines. Plan to send the injectors off to get them cleaned / new pintle caps and orings, plan on replacing the fuel filter with an external one as well.

    Any other gotchas I should look for before starting to put it back together?

    Thanks!

  • Tuckntruck
    replied
    I was hoping to avoid pulling the brake masters apart, however, I was having issues with the brakes still. Application wasnít smooth, nor consistent.

    Started with the rear. Pulled the fittings off and the banjo bolt on the rear was full of rust and white stuff. Time for a rebuild anyways I guess. 4EF27CEF-CE71-4092-8903-E64794AB3326.jpegB21AD8F4-00A5-43B0-8687-22B15B0C0A41.jpeg
    5C86B4AC-FF5A-430D-8B9A-94D853AB525A.jpeg
    my hands were covered in brake fluid, so I didnít really want to grab the phone and take pictures.

    Anyways, new deals front and rear, more new fluid and a much better feel on the pedal
    Attached Files

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  • Tuckntruck
    replied
    Looking to replace the right hand side frame slider that would normally go here- Iím having trouble locating the brand and am guessing at this point itís easier just to find the right length. If anybody recognizes the mount and knows the length I should be looking for, Iíd appreciate it!

    Leave a comment:


  • Tuckntruck
    replied
    Originally posted by Six5 View Post

    Also have a look at the Orange wire to Black/Red wire transition in the Large White Gang Connector (LWGC), and the Gray wire and Orange/Green wire that are connected to a loop in the Black Gang Connector leading to the RH switch pod. They are all connections in the path of the lighting circuit, and they have caused problems in the past. If they are not burned, clean the terminals the best you can. (WD-40 and a toothbrush......)
    Thanks! I did pull and check the connectors to the left of the gauge pod (riders left) and they were all surprisingly clean. I actually havenít found any terminal corrosion yet. To be completely honest, Iím not really at a stage of my life where I was expecting to pick up another bike (3 young kids and wife out of work while raising them) so Iím not sure how much Iíll ride, and will certainly be skipping night and rainy riding... hopefully corrosion remains a non issue.

    its only the light under the speedometer the rest seem fine. Iíll take another look at it when Iíve got it apart next I guess

    Leave a comment:


  • Six5
    replied
    Originally posted by Tuckntruck View Post
    .....
    Notice that the speedo lights kind of flicker, so Iím also expecting come dirty wires in that big cluster going into the instrument cluster... or maybe itís just an old bulb.
    ....
    Also have a look at the Orange wire to Black/Red wire transition in the Large White Gang Connector (LWGC), and the Gray wire and Orange/Green wire that are connected to a loop in the Black Gang Connector leading to the RH switch pod. They are all connections in the path of the lighting circuit, and they have caused problems in the past. If they are not burned, clean the terminals the best you can. (WD-40 and a toothbrush......)

    Leave a comment:


  • Tuckntruck
    replied
    Unfortunately Iíve only been able to grab a few spare minutes at a time to work on it-

    anyways, brake and clutch hydraulic systems finally rebuilt with new lines (and all working) clutch slave push rod seal replaced. I was having issues with idle, and the motor was lean sneezing / stalling on me. After lots of checking the FPR/Pump I went to pull the airbox again and noticed that I apparently forgot to hook up one of the vacuum lines to one of the solenoids... lean condition easily explained.

    Gave me the bike a wash, and with that a no start for the next two days. The starter dues relay was dry and clean. Plugs were covered in gas, Spark was super weak though. I reseated the coil leads after a shot of electrical contact cleaner to move any water out of the way and pulled the return line off the tank and cycled the pump a few times in case water had gotten in the tank. Put it back together and she started up.

    Im guessing it was electrical. Notice that the speedo lights kind of flicker, so Iím also expecting come dirty wires in that big cluster going into the instrument cluster... or maybe itís just an old bulb.

    Put some Opt7 LEDs in the headlight, removed the modulator. The bulbs will throw some glare, but I have no intention of riding at night, so I can live with that.

    For it now sheís all buttoned up. Time to register and then wait patiently for the street sweeps to clean all the sand off the roads. EB9FFCF1-BAE3-412F-B119-036BF15C2A23.jpeg

    Leave a comment:


  • drH
    replied
    Looking great. looks like you're doing all of it right. No hack-job here

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeff
    replied

    Leave a comment:


  • Tuckntruck
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeff View Post
    I hope you used gas line rated for use submerged in gasoline to replace the fuel filter in the tank. If not now's a good time to replace it with the proper stuff to avoid problems down the road.

    You can use an old damper. Just replace the old oil and if it' snot leaking you're good to go. Was a fairly common thing back when the TL was young. Nothing wrong with an aftermarket unit though.
    yep, submersible rated gates fuel line in the tank, standard fuel injector line external.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeff
    replied
    I hope you used gas line rated for use submerged in gasoline to replace the fuel filter in the tank. If not now's a good time to replace it with the proper stuff to avoid problems down the road.

    You can use an old damper. Just replace the old oil and if it' snot leaking you're good to go. Was a fairly common thing back when the TL was young. Nothing wrong with an aftermarket unit though.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tuckntruck
    replied
    One of the missing parts on the bike was the OEM steering dampener. eBay has plenty of OEM ones, however I assume that most of them are played out and probably not great anymore.

    Does anybody have have personal preference regarding aftermarket options? Or should I just get an ohlins and not worry about it

    Leave a comment:


  • Tuckntruck
    replied
    Got my injectors back today, all 4 weíre stuck closed. O flow/ no spray pattern observed. They came back clean and all flowing pretty much dead even which is pretty rare in my experience with old gummy injectors. Anyways, plugged them in, put the rail back together gassed it up and poof! Started right up. She wasnít too happy as I didnít bother to hook up the IAT sensor, but thatíll be fixed as soon as I put the air box back. 7D9DC106-08B5-42F0-A5B9-693C57622953.jpeg8C6F9945-BBC3-41DF-A16E-6752D2AB507F.jpeg

    https://youtu.be/95EmZCPqma0

    Leave a comment:


  • Tuckntruck
    replied
    Originally posted by Six5 View Post


    Remember, in the OEM configuration, the amount of fuel delivered to the intakes is controlled by the duration of the injector pulse, not the pressure applied to the fuel rail.
    Right, the injector flow is a function of pulse width, fuel density, pressure, ambient pressure and system voltage. I havenít dug into it much, but, without an airflow or pressure sensor I expect that the bike is running a simple speed/density fuel program- which typically suffer from acceleration lag issues - in a sense the target FPR is 42psi above manifold, if you go from idle to WOT and just wack it open though the fuel system can lag depending on the acceleration enrich setting. Iíd bet if you watch a pressure gauge on a running bike, smack the throttle open and youíll initially see it jump by a few PSI more to make sure the injectors have adequate fuel, not to provide accel enrichment.

    Anyways, seems like mine is working, think Iíll probably run a cleaning solution through it though (fuel and return side at pressure).

    it was surprising how sticky the rest of the rail was. Guess thatís what 16 year old gas does.

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  • Six5
    replied
    Originally posted by Tuckntruck View Post
    ....
    whats the best way to test the fuel pressure regulator (if any) off the bike? By the looks, Iím guessing it wonít open until base PSI is met. The vacuum port Iím assuming alleviates some of the diaphragm pressure at high vacuum (idle) and released it at low vacuum (WOT) which provides more fuel pressure at WOT... not sure if that would help enough to ďblow throughĒ the regulator. .....
    The fuel pressure regulator should open at 41~42 psi. It can be tested with compressed air, but let the pressure build slowly. In other words, avoid blasting it with 120 psi.

    The vacuum port is there as a reference pressure. The system is design to maintain a fuel pressure at ~42 psi above the intake manifold pressure. In doing so, it maintains a relatively constant pressure differential across the injectors for uniform fuel delivery at various RPMs. Remember, in the OEM configuration, the amount of fuel delivered to the intakes is controlled by the duration of the injector pulse, not the pressure applied to the fuel rail.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tuckntruck
    replied
    Continuing on,

    replaced the fuel pump, ended up switching to an external filter as I was back in the tank again.

    pulled the fuel rails and injector manifold. Enough molasses in there that Iím not even going to bother seeing they work.

    Injectors are off to injector rehab in Nj (used them before with great results)

    manifolds going into the parts cleaner- with another order for crush washers.

    whats the best way to test the fuel pressure regulator (if any) off the bike? By the looks, Iím guessing it wonít open until base PSI is met. The vacuum port Iím assuming alleviates some of the diaphragm pressure at high vacuum (idle) and released it at low vacuum (WOT) which provides more fuel pressure at WOT... not sure if that would help enough to ďblow throughĒ the regulator. 1DCC1C1E-FF4F-457B-923C-75A7C81E2FDD.jpeg0E2D5A68-7FDB-46CD-8C1F-F06117358B22.jpeg9D3DDDC7-1545-440D-937A-D54FC3F5802F.jpeg36A28428-485D-4CB5-BD7B-43C7A9F74DB2.jpeg7E9E4E70-08BB-437F-B0D1-E15C5E098AED.jpeg64FC5E28-F68C-4402-8227-714AB7CB6B91.jpeg ​​​​​​​

    Leave a comment:

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