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  • V2
    started a topic Your starting routine........

    Your starting routine........

    Ever since I've had my TLR I've struggled to find a good starting routine. My previous inline 4's all started first pop, within 2 seconds of hitting the starter, no choke required.

    The TLR is a different beast, atm I turn it on, wait for the fuel pump to finish priming then push the starter, (no throttle or choke) after about 2 seconds of cranking I give it two 1/4throttle turns on the gas. I continue cranking for about another 3 to 4 seconds after this until it coughs, but doesn't quite fire. I then wait about 10 seconds before hitting the starter again and usually it fires up. If I keep cranking after it coughs it will literally foul a plug and refuse to start! The other night I was going to the speedway and took the bike, it didn't start cleanly but I got it going and off I went. First part of the journey was stop start and I stalled it at a set of lights whilst taking off!!!! After it fired again I was down to one plug, on and off. I got into a more flowing higher speed section and it all came good. 5 hours later I started the bike no probs and rode home.

    So whats your start routine I might mention my bike is bog stock, no mods apart from a tre and full yosh system, wireing loom is in good condition, and hasn't been butchered or modified that I have found so far.

  • AJ TLRMAN
    replied
    Done all of the mods....+ mod, charging mod and earth/starter cable upgrade...starts really well now.

    Leave a comment:


  • popes996
    replied
    Rode mine for first time since November last night; 3C outside; 8C in garage. Prime pump twice (hear the fuel back up to lines), flick starter, da-dum da-dum and away she goes; 45 miles, frozen solid but happy!

    Leave a comment:


  • V2
    replied
    Mine runs on 98 octane can go to 100 at the pump if I want. I would say ambient temps that the bike lives in have some affect as well. Yesterday it was 39 degrees (102F) here and has been like that for most of the last 2 weeks! The fuel is hot the radiator is already at 32 degrees (89F) when I turn the key on! You may just have a freak bike.......

    Leave a comment:


  • popes996
    replied
    Not wishing to sound smug but is it the UK fuel that helps? - mine is bone stock bar Yosh cans and even after a month sat in the garage (off charger) if I went out now and primed the pump; fast idle to 3/4 it would fire after 2 seconds and away with no problems?? Not touched the TPS since I bought it; changed the plugs about 2 years ago and air filter 3 months ago.

    We have 98RON; is it that simple ??

    Leave a comment:


  • rxf610
    replied
    Originally posted by V2 View Post
    New fuel pump fitted to the "R" and bang fired up from cold after about 2 seconds of cranking! (Headlight fuse still removed) Thanks rxf610 for the suggestion, now to take it for a ride and see how it performs. Going to the speedway tonight so a 120km round trip should see how it performs.........




    You can replace your coils with the SV coils. They are not the same mounting width, so use a nylock nut on one mounting lug to the plate on the engine. The other one will float free. You could maybe put some safety wire through it to the other mounting hole...

    For the + mod, like Sam said, just put the relay somewhere you can access it. Very straightforward.

    Leave a comment:


  • V2
    replied
    New fuel pump fitted to the "R" and bang fired up from cold after about 2 seconds of cranking! (Headlight fuse still removed) Thanks rxf610 for the suggestion, now to take it for a ride and see how it performs. Going to the speedway tonight so a 120km round trip should see how it performs.........

    Leave a comment:


  • V2
    replied
    RX, I ultrasonically cleaned both my "R" and "S" injectors about 2 months ago as the "R" engine had a slight hesitation around the 4k mark. I have put a new fuel pump (Kemso) in my "S" as that only had 29psi and what a difference that made! Can't remember if I changed the pump in the "R" though, will check to see if I have a used "R" pump in the spares box.....

    Leave a comment:


  • rxf610
    replied
    Great to see Sam back!

    My front fork kit is amazing and he welded my clutch center!

    V2,

    Do a fuel return test...

    I'm thinking that will enlighten the actual problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sam
    replied
    I hillclimb race it in the UK and wanted to build the rare trike version rather than a sidecar, It's hub centre front steering to keep the slick in full contact all the time, 10" wide rear slicks and Ford Cosworth limited slip diff. We are limited to 1300cc so I chose the Gen1 Hayabusa engine and my usual touch of magic to the engine to get it to 187bhp at the rear slicks, 205 at the crank. Was bloody great fun and fooking fast !! Unfortunately one of the rear CV joint bearing cages broke at close to 100mph and locked the wheel, the LSD also locked the other rear wheel, so a pair of 10" wide slicks both locked at 100mph can only end in disaster, we flipped and barrel rolled end over end. Both of us were an hour on stretchers before a doctor arrived in an air ambulance to check us over before been allowed to take us to hospital by ambulance. I never seem to do things by halves when on the rare occasion I crash lol

    It was our very first practice of 2017 and 2 sets of new leathers/Arai helmets/boots etc were only 63 seconds old ! They saved our lives and once I was in the ambulance I insisted they removed my leathers before my adrenalin wore off and the pain kicked in so they wouldn't cut them off hehe.

    Leave a comment:


  • V2
    replied
    Hey Sam, nice short wheel base sidecar, do you use that style instead of an LCR worm due to the nature of the tracks/ hillclimbs? The reason I ask as I have a lady at work who asked if I was into sidecars and I asked why? Turns out her brother inlaw make his own version of an LCR worm out of sheet ally, all riveted together, no Welding!!!! and they do bloody well with them on our road racing circuit. Problem is our circuit here has been out of action for motorcycle racing and ride days for nearly 2 years as we had a couple of deaths at the track, and the coroner investigated and shut the place down until it is changed/ upgraded.

    Yes I will do the +mod and coils at the same time, will head everyones advice in doing the mod. I am flatout working on the S getting it ready to run on the salt in mid March. Less than 8 weeks to go and I haven't turned a wheel in anger yet!!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Sam
    replied
    The plus mod can be useful but just be careful where you mount the relay and fuse, seen a few where they are under the fuel tank/airbox in a location you can't access at the side of the road when the relay fails or the fuse pops ! Make and add a wiring loop with male connectors to your toolkit so can bypass the relay in a get home emergency.

    Leave a comment:


  • Six5
    replied
    Originally posted by Brainless View Post

    If you do the coils, you might as well do the +mod.

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  • Six5
    replied
    Originally posted by Sam View Post
    ....... so pretty normal really
    That's what we hoped for Sam.

    Glad to have you commenting on the forum again.



    Leave a comment:


  • Brainless
    replied
    Originally posted by V2 View Post
    Tomorrow I will pull the headlight fuse before attempting to start it. I'll see if taking that out of the equation makes a difference. I also have some Sv1000 coils sitting in shed...........
    If you do the coils, you might as well do the +mod.

    Leave a comment:

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