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  • regulator rectifier help

    Rectifier help

    I think my rectifier shit the bed recently.

    when the bike is off, battery holds constant 12 volts. at idle its pushing about 15 volts out.

    any clues, any similar parts off of other bikes fit, or am I way off base on thinking that


    The bike dosn't always like to start, the headlights dim when I rev it off of idle. No clue how old battery is, was in the bike when I bought it in april.

    any help guys, leaving for deals gap tomarow for a week of play, and need to know what parts I need to have shipped down there.

    Ken
    2000 TLS, bahama blue with guard rail mods, ProTek rearsets, Yosh Slipons, PCIII

    2001 DRZ 400E M4 full system, Nstyle graphics, 320mm front rotor/17inch spoked rims on the way. Damn shipping

  • #2
    You will get a higher voltage reading across the battery terminals when it's running. Not sure what the correct reading is, but it has to be higher than 12v in order to charge the battery. 15v does sound a little high...usually 13-13.5v is all it takes to keep a battery charged.

    Jim Miller
    Appalachian Signs & Graphics
    * For All Your Sportbike And Racing Decal Needs *
    Phone: 717-979-2814
    www.appalachian-signs.com
    [email protected]

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    • #3
      13.8v max Apply your meter at idle then increase RPM slightly. Your voltage should increase then drop again when reducing RPM. 15v seems too high. Hang around somebody will help ya
      Retired the TLR for a Gixxer 1K. Sorry boys I sold you out

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      • #4
        ok, anyone know where I can get an extra one in a short amount of time


        I'm hurting here, and gonna be pissed as hell if I can't run the gap all next week.
        2000 TLS, bahama blue with guard rail mods, ProTek rearsets, Yosh Slipons, PCIII

        2001 DRZ 400E M4 full system, Nstyle graphics, 320mm front rotor/17inch spoked rims on the way. Damn shipping

        Comment


        • #5
          SUZ 7-8
          * Remove the service lid and battery cover.
          * Start the engine and keep it running a 5k RPM with lighting switch turned on () and dimmer switch turned HI position
          Measure the DC voltage between the battery terminaly (+) and (-) with a multi-circuit tester.
          * If the tester reads UNDER 13.3v or OVER 14.3v, inspect the generator coil and/or the regulator/rectifier.
          "Damn... my brain just stopped"

          Comment


          • #6
            TLR regulator/rectifier diode test

            Useing the multi tester, measure the voltage between the lead wires in the previous table
            If voltage is incorrect... replace the R/R
            "Damn... my brain just stopped"

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            • #7
              The rectifier/regulator on the TLR(S) is a shunt type, meaning it works hardest under light loads and mid/high rpm. You will need an accurate voltmeter to test for correct voltage at the battery terminal ( which is where you should measure in all cases ) 13.8 is not enough to reliably charge the newer sealed batteries 14.2V to 14.4V is the working range of most shunt regs. If your charge volatge rises as you increase the load ( say high beam on ) then there is a problem in the wiring/switches/fuses that is causing a voltage drop on the regulator sense wire to increase the output voltage, for me 14.7V is the upper limit any higher and the battery will suffer in time.
              A load test on the battery at your local auto electrician is a good step when dealing with charging problems.

              Hope that helps.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by silversv
                ok, anyone know where I can get an extra one in a short amount of time


                I'm hurting here, and gonna be pissed as hell if I can't run the gap all next week.

                THE GAP!!!!!!!! OOOOOOOOOHHHH.... I'M JEALOUS!
                Full Yosh - PCII - K&N - Protek rear sets - Joe V mod - Pair Valve removed - Mobil 1 Synthetic - Shaved subframe - BRG 1/5 throttle - Yellow windscreen - Ministalk signals - Hugger - Manual fan switch - TRE - Gap mod with custom tray - GPS - Krisnett spools - Subrame raised 3/4" - 12 volt plug - Rear brake reservoir in tail - M1 Metzlers - Powerlet lead - Extended drain hose - Quick release seat & tank - Top gun undertail with clear lenses - Clock/Thermometer - License plate on swingarm - Belly

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by TLRYellow
                  13.8 is not enough to reliably charge the newer sealed batteries 14.2V to 14.4V is the working range of most shunt regs.
                  I'd be using the values quoted in the manual for the TLS/TLR voltage levels for the regulator, not generic ones.

                  As Jupiter pasted:
                  SUZ 7-8
                  * Remove the service lid and battery cover.
                  * Start the engine and keep it running a 5k RPM with lighting switch turned on () and dimmer switch turned HI position
                  Measure the DC voltage between the battery terminaly (+) and (-) with a multi-circuit tester.
                  * If the tester reads UNDER 13.3v or OVER 14.3v, inspect the generator coil and/or the regulator/rectifier.
                  "I spent most of my money on Scotch, women and cigarettes. The rest I just wasted"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by jupiter33458
                    * Start the engine and keep it running a 5k RPM with lighting switch turned on

                    The euro models came with a on/off switch that fills that blank plate on your throttle assy. True


                    I have always heard you have to keep the TL's above 4k or it put a lot of strain on the battery. my .02

                    good luck with yours, I'd hate to hear you couldn't ride the Gap
                    TLOTM:
                    May 2003
                    August 2004

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                    • #11
                      Came up with one from a bin at the shop. Not sure its in much better shape, but the voltage is MUCH lower. Around 13 volts with it, compared to just shy of 15 on mine.

                      Yep, gonna go play on the dragon for aweek.

                      I'll post up any pics I get after I get back.

                      Keeping my original one, just in case somthing happens, better safe than sorry.

                      And thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it a lot.
                      2000 TLS, bahama blue with guard rail mods, ProTek rearsets, Yosh Slipons, PCIII

                      2001 DRZ 400E M4 full system, Nstyle graphics, 320mm front rotor/17inch spoked rims on the way. Damn shipping

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: regulator rectifier help

                        i just replaced my rectifier, i got one from electrosport and it works better than the stock one. it keeps the battery at a better charge,and now it doesn't take as long to start when its cold.

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