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  • oil change

    I'm about to change my own oil this time and got everything ready.. except i just found out i dont have any sockets or wrenchs that will fit the oil bolt. (there's not one in my tool kit either ?) can some one "one off" me the size i'm going to buy ? as well when i'm snuggin up the bolt, since i don't have a torque wrench is a good practice to snug it up and then a quarter turn of pressure ? Cheers
    dsly1
    The Notoriously Bad spellr
    Last edited by dsly1; 09-12-2003, 10:58 AM.
    2000 Race only TLR - Accel. Tech built GSXR1K forks w/triple, calipers/pads - Braking Wave Rotors - Full M4 (carbon) - Ohlins damper - Ohlins rear - pirelli tires - Graves fairing stay - Race tail complete with sub-frame - PCII - BMC filter - full Air box mod - Body Double race bodywork - GSXR1K front fender - Galfer/Goodridge lines - Woodcraft rearsets - complete - Woodcraft 50mm clip-ons - Complete front and rear brake levers w/ pazzo short levers red - Tre-Mod + Mod

  • #2
    its a 21mm. but you can use a 13/16 wrench or socket too. best bet for tightening it up is ALWAYS replace the crush washer on the drain plug. you can buy like 5 at a time from the dealer, but always replace it. if you use the old one over its hard to tell when it is fully seated and you could risk a leak or striping the threads by over tightening. with a new one its easy. the washer crushes down as you tighten it and makes it easy to tell how tight is tight enough.
    2002 TLR B/W . Yoshimura bolt on Titanium cans. Yosh box remap. Joe V airbox mod. plug in TRE. 17/41 sprockets. Zero Gravity double bubble screen. fan switch. HyperPro steering damper. Extreme Graphic Top Gun undertail. Ohlins rear shock.

    Gear: Arai Quantum f. Joe Rocket GPX 1pc suit. Alpinestars Super Tech boots. Alpinestars GP-1 gloves----always wear it all

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    • #3
      can i buy one of those from canadian tire ? if ya know what this is or is this a dealer thing ? is there a size to that ?
      2000 Race only TLR - Accel. Tech built GSXR1K forks w/triple, calipers/pads - Braking Wave Rotors - Full M4 (carbon) - Ohlins damper - Ohlins rear - pirelli tires - Graves fairing stay - Race tail complete with sub-frame - PCII - BMC filter - full Air box mod - Body Double race bodywork - GSXR1K front fender - Galfer/Goodridge lines - Woodcraft rearsets - complete - Woodcraft 50mm clip-ons - Complete front and rear brake levers w/ pazzo short levers red - Tre-Mod + Mod

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      • #4
        let me go see if i can find a part number......brb
        2002 TLR B/W . Yoshimura bolt on Titanium cans. Yosh box remap. Joe V airbox mod. plug in TRE. 17/41 sprockets. Zero Gravity double bubble screen. fan switch. HyperPro steering damper. Extreme Graphic Top Gun undertail. Ohlins rear shock.

        Gear: Arai Quantum f. Joe Rocket GPX 1pc suit. Alpinestars Super Tech boots. Alpinestars GP-1 gloves----always wear it all

        <a href="http://www.wunderground.com/US/CA/San_Ramon.html">
        <img src="http://banners.wunderground.com/banner

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        • #5
          well.........i just used the last one a week ago when i changed the oil so i don't have the exact specs for it. the part number from suzuki is 09168-14004. you can probably get one similar at a parts store . my first oil change i re-used the same one, but i didn't like the way it felt when i re-tightened it. you have to pretty much destroy it to get it off the drain plug so maybe take the whole drain plug down to the parts store to make sure you can get a replacement before you try to take it off. one side of the washer is flat (goes toward the drain plug hex head) the other side is raised (goes toward engine) and is designed to crush down flat and seal from oil leak.

          if you can't get a new one just snug the drain plug tight. don't over tighten it. remember you are tightening a steel drain plug into an aluminum case........the steel will always win in a battle like that, so just snug it up hand tight and then just a bit more.

          i'm not trying to scare you, i just hear of so many people over tightening it and fuggin up the threads in the engine.
          2002 TLR B/W . Yoshimura bolt on Titanium cans. Yosh box remap. Joe V airbox mod. plug in TRE. 17/41 sprockets. Zero Gravity double bubble screen. fan switch. HyperPro steering damper. Extreme Graphic Top Gun undertail. Ohlins rear shock.

          Gear: Arai Quantum f. Joe Rocket GPX 1pc suit. Alpinestars Super Tech boots. Alpinestars GP-1 gloves----always wear it all

          <a href="http://www.wunderground.com/US/CA/San_Ramon.html">
          <img src="http://banners.wunderground.com/banner

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          • #6
            Originally posted by dsly1
            can i buy one of those from canadian tire ? if ya know what this is or is this a dealer thing ? is there a size to that ?
            Canadian Tire holy shit havent heard that name since i lived in Mortreal about 12 years ago! Ahhhh Memories!
            http://media.damnfunnypictures.com/dfp/fg_14.gif
            My sig image busted the height and size limits.

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            • #7
              Ok went to canadian tire.. got what i needed (cept the crush washer which they didn't have a clue what I was talkin about) I got the drain plug off and the oil filter.. but it didn't see any washer when i took it off.. I checked all the used oil as well to see if i missed it and it fell in an nothing.. so i guess they didn't use one at teh shop last time... anyway.. at canadian tire they have oil plug washers.. some copper some vinyl plastic.. should i use one of those and if so which one ?
              2000 Race only TLR - Accel. Tech built GSXR1K forks w/triple, calipers/pads - Braking Wave Rotors - Full M4 (carbon) - Ohlins damper - Ohlins rear - pirelli tires - Graves fairing stay - Race tail complete with sub-frame - PCII - BMC filter - full Air box mod - Body Double race bodywork - GSXR1K front fender - Galfer/Goodridge lines - Woodcraft rearsets - complete - Woodcraft 50mm clip-ons - Complete front and rear brake levers w/ pazzo short levers red - Tre-Mod + Mod

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              • #8
                should i just replace the plug with exactly what was there... nuttin. i'm hangin here ....
                2000 Race only TLR - Accel. Tech built GSXR1K forks w/triple, calipers/pads - Braking Wave Rotors - Full M4 (carbon) - Ohlins damper - Ohlins rear - pirelli tires - Graves fairing stay - Race tail complete with sub-frame - PCII - BMC filter - full Air box mod - Body Double race bodywork - GSXR1K front fender - Galfer/Goodridge lines - Woodcraft rearsets - complete - Woodcraft 50mm clip-ons - Complete front and rear brake levers w/ pazzo short levers red - Tre-Mod + Mod

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                • #9
                  Go back with you're sump bolt and buy one.... which one? Whatever takes your fancy.
                  "I spent most of my money on Scotch, women and cigarettes. The rest I just wasted"

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                  • #10
                    Either will work fine, I would prefer copper personally...
                    Full Yosh - PCII - K&N - Protek rear sets - Joe V mod - Pair Valve removed - Mobil 1 Synthetic - Shaved subframe - BRG 1/5 throttle - Yellow windscreen - Ministalk signals - Hugger - Manual fan switch - TRE - Gap mod with custom tray - GPS - Krisnett spools - Subrame raised 3/4" - 12 volt plug - Rear brake reservoir in tail - M1 Metzlers - Powerlet lead - Extended drain hose - Quick release seat & tank - Top gun undertail with clear lenses - Clock/Thermometer - License plate on swingarm - Belly

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                    • #11
                      otay.. thanks guys.
                      2000 Race only TLR - Accel. Tech built GSXR1K forks w/triple, calipers/pads - Braking Wave Rotors - Full M4 (carbon) - Ohlins damper - Ohlins rear - pirelli tires - Graves fairing stay - Race tail complete with sub-frame - PCII - BMC filter - full Air box mod - Body Double race bodywork - GSXR1K front fender - Galfer/Goodridge lines - Woodcraft rearsets - complete - Woodcraft 50mm clip-ons - Complete front and rear brake levers w/ pazzo short levers red - Tre-Mod + Mod

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                      • #12
                        yeah bring your bolt in and match one as steve above said.

                        or if for some reason you can't get a new crush washer to match, you could try something i did a few times when i was a teenager and couldnt get to the parts store in time to get a crush washer, and never had a problem with a leak. some others here might cringe and correct me if i'm wrong, but this is a home-cooked solution: Take your used crush washer and heat it up with a blow torch so it swells and expands. Let it cool and then reuse it. Worked for me in the past.... but if you can get your hands on a new one, use the new one, after all, theyre cheap.
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                        • #13
                          Yeah I just use an automotive aluminum crush washer. The Suzuki washers that come on the drain bolt suck and are pain in the ass to get off.

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                          • #14
                            also what makes a good crush washer is the appropriate sized copper spark plug washer go to a good auto parts store and take the drain bolt with you, as there are lots of different sized spark plugs which should give you one to fit the TL.

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                            • #15
                              also the spark plug washers some times use aluminum washers which will work equally as well as a copper washer.

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