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which oil should I run? LOL asked for the 100th time

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  • which oil should I run? LOL asked for the 100th time

    Okay, after reading sportriders articles on oil it looks like the auto Mobile One 15-50 is the way to go. What do you think? What do you use and why?


  • #2
    Mobil-1 15w-50 (auto).
    I live in South Florida, and it gets hot... DAMN HOT, so I need an oil that can take the abuse.
    "Damn... my brain just stopped"


    • #3
      Just switched from Bel Ray 20-50 semi synthetic to
      10-50 full synthetic.
      I've heard good things about the Mobile 1 (bike oil), I'm sure you'll be fine with that. I wouldn't use the auto stuff.
      I personally think any good motorcycle specific oil changed regularly is fine.


      • #4
        i would run bike specific oil IMHO...


        • #5
          I hear you on the motorcycle specific stuff, but if you get a chance to read the sportrider article, do it, it's well worth it.


          • #6
            I tried, but I almost passed out. .

            Running the Mobil MX4t, and it's pretty good.. I think Mr Smooth is racing with that? Jim
            I've got a huge penis, You've got a huge penis, even Tim over there, yup you guessed it, huge penis. Good, now that that's out of the way, let's go ride


            • #7
              I use 15/50 mobil 1 car synthetic have for several years in several diff bikes works great. Also in the last bike mag article what was really funny was the chemical engineer for shell oil runs Mobil 1 car synthetic in his motorcycle.


              • #8
                I don't know what your climate is like, but go a 10W/40 if you can. Less pumping losses.
                "I spent most of my money on Scotch, women and cigarettes. The rest I just wasted"


                • #9
                  Steve, what do you mean by less pumping losses?


                  • #10
                    I see it this way (could be wrong) ...

                    I use the LOWEST winter # possible, as I think the oil needs to be as thin as possible when cold to ease the lubrication distribution to the rest of the engine.

                    The summer # (or whatever it's called) to me really doesn't make a difference, because your bike is only going to reach a maximum temperature (say 180-200 or so). I don't think you're going to get "extra" protection in going with a 50wt over a 30 or 40 wt.



                    • #11
                      The thicker the oil, the harder it is to pump around the engine. Cold starts and running is better with a lighter oil too. Use the lightest weight you can get away with in your typical climate.

                      The oil system has a pressure relief valve for excessive pressure, but the thicker the oil and the higher the pressure the more work the oil pump and oil pump drive has to cope with, all adds up to power sapping losses.

                      The system only need enough pressure to stop the rods, crank etc from being able to push the oil out of the way under pressure. Flow is more important, thinner oil will flow better, the flow removes heat and combustion byproducts (solids).

                      Try sucking honey up through a straw, then water.

                      Maybe I'm just to anal about the stuff.
                      "I spent most of my money on Scotch, women and cigarettes. The rest I just wasted"


                      • #12
                        Castrol GTX 20-50 (20-40 in winter), always have, in every bike I have owned.
                        Yepper, Still Alive.


                        • #13
                          For what it is worth, I have been running Mobil 1 15/50 auto for years. The 10/40 is marked with the dreaded "engergy saving" label while the 15/50 is not.

                          For me the proof of the goodness of this oil is the fact that my old Honda XL600, which had minimal finning on the cylinder and ran hot as hell, amassed 60,000 miles (under the guy I sold it to, who said he kept using the Mobil 1 on my advice) with no breakdowns. If finally spring a head gasket leak. New gasket installed, as far as I know, it is still thumping along. I rode that bike plenty off road too. My new DRZ400 is getting the same treatment. Singles thrash their oil.

                          My '87 Kawi Ninja 750 hat almost 70,000 miles on her when sold, still ran 11.6 quarter at 124 mph with me on it near the end, probably at the 60,000 mile mark. She weas making full power.

                          More importantly, change the oil often. I put new stuff in before a hard thrashin' track day, regardless of mileage.

                          Oh, and let me take this opportunity to bless (again) the KP/Scott's lifetime stainless mesh oil filter. Just dropped one in my DRZ. I am a madman, I tell you
                          "The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man." - George Bernard Shaw


                          • #14
                            I'm also on the Mobil-1 15w-50 auto bandwagon. What's this "tick" everyone is talking about. It seemed to fair the best on the Sportrider tests and I've never had a problem with it. No clutch slipping, even with a stock clutch with 8000 miles (stock springs too).


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by TLSBill
                              Running the Mobil MX4t, and it's pretty good.. I think Mr Smooth is racing with that? Jim
                              Oh no, you're not going to bait me into a "what's the best oil" flamewar!

                              SportRider mag did a great 2 part series on oil the last two months. I'll defer to their opinions.
                              MRA Rider Rep; '99, '03, & '05 MRA SuperTwins GTO champ; Big Stick Racing