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sprocket help
i just want a little more accel. not overkill. what do you guys reccomend? do i need both or can i get just the rear? are they easy to install?Sebimoto Carbonfiber Bodywork, Zero Gravity D/B dark tinted screen, Carbo tech C/F frame guards, C/F look levers, black Spider grips, M4 Full system (alum), PC2, Light tech C/F mirrors, GeeLong C/F tank protector, 520 Conversion W/ Gold RK chain and 16/40 stealth sprockets, Pedros Gear Position Indicator, Fan switch, Airbox lid.....REMOVED, Probolt Fasteners all Gold. Spare Set of AMA's Larry Pegram #72 bodywork, Gold clear clutch cover, Galfer rear wave rotor, Pro-Tek Rearsets, Flycal6 quick release tank and seat pins, in the black frame club, Vandrivers coerce style sprocket guard, and a killer TLR keychainTags: None
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I agree with Ryno... But I had about 1300 miles on my bike when I changed just the front from a 17 to a 16 tooth. I don't see any bad wearsigns from it.
I noticed the front comes up alot easier... even though I'm not a wheelie/stunter guy... I'm too chicken of hurting myself and/or wrecking my bike.TL1000R: For those who like to drive high speed tanks
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howcome? i thought i could keep the stock chain w/ that size. what would the problems be?Sebimoto Carbonfiber Bodywork, Zero Gravity D/B dark tinted screen, Carbo tech C/F frame guards, C/F look levers, black Spider grips, M4 Full system (alum), PC2, Light tech C/F mirrors, GeeLong C/F tank protector, 520 Conversion W/ Gold RK chain and 16/40 stealth sprockets, Pedros Gear Position Indicator, Fan switch, Airbox lid.....REMOVED, Probolt Fasteners all Gold. Spare Set of AMA's Larry Pegram #72 bodywork, Gold clear clutch cover, Galfer rear wave rotor, Pro-Tek Rearsets, Flycal6 quick release tank and seat pins, in the black frame club, Vandrivers coerce style sprocket guard, and a killer TLR keychain
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what kind of wear are we talkin about. the 3000 miles on the back tire is killin me as it is.Sebimoto Carbonfiber Bodywork, Zero Gravity D/B dark tinted screen, Carbo tech C/F frame guards, C/F look levers, black Spider grips, M4 Full system (alum), PC2, Light tech C/F mirrors, GeeLong C/F tank protector, 520 Conversion W/ Gold RK chain and 16/40 stealth sprockets, Pedros Gear Position Indicator, Fan switch, Airbox lid.....REMOVED, Probolt Fasteners all Gold. Spare Set of AMA's Larry Pegram #72 bodywork, Gold clear clutch cover, Galfer rear wave rotor, Pro-Tek Rearsets, Flycal6 quick release tank and seat pins, in the black frame club, Vandrivers coerce style sprocket guard, and a killer TLR keychain
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well if its gonna wear my tire even more(which i thought was impossible) i aint doin it. screw that.Sebimoto Carbonfiber Bodywork, Zero Gravity D/B dark tinted screen, Carbo tech C/F frame guards, C/F look levers, black Spider grips, M4 Full system (alum), PC2, Light tech C/F mirrors, GeeLong C/F tank protector, 520 Conversion W/ Gold RK chain and 16/40 stealth sprockets, Pedros Gear Position Indicator, Fan switch, Airbox lid.....REMOVED, Probolt Fasteners all Gold. Spare Set of AMA's Larry Pegram #72 bodywork, Gold clear clutch cover, Galfer rear wave rotor, Pro-Tek Rearsets, Flycal6 quick release tank and seat pins, in the black frame club, Vandrivers coerce style sprocket guard, and a killer TLR keychain
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Originally posted by jasonstiller
howcome? i thought i could keep the stock chain w/ that size. what would the problems be?
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But if you have reasonably low miles on your chain, just put on a new sprocket, it's false economising to change the lot out at low miles to save a bit of accelerated wear when you'll probably got a heap of life left with what you've got.
Why put on a new $200 chain to stop a $20 front or $40 rear sprocket from wearing out faster than normal?
But if they have high miles, change the lot as a set.
And -1 on the front or +2 on the rear will go with the stock standard length chain. If you go up on the rear, just roll the chain over the sprocket before you insert the axle. You need the wheel all the way forward in the swing arm to feed it over."I spent most of my money on Scotch, women and cigarettes. The rest I just wasted"
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I'm up for bigger rear and no smaller front Wears the swingarm guard too much on the front -1 easier + on the rear.. less wear on the cover.I've got a huge penis, You've got a huge penis, even Tim over there, yup you guessed it, huge penis. Good, now that that's out of the way, let's go ride
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The effect on your tire is just what you do with it.
But it is quite obvious that if you want faster acceleration (that is your reason for changing sprockets, right?) your tire is gonna feel it.
Accelerate hard = wear your tire hard...
Offcourse you can always change the sprocket forand just so can say you have, and then pull away like a grandmother on tranquillisers. That will save your tire...
If You're Not Living On The Edge, You're Taking Up Too Much Space
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Another thing to take into consideration. A smaller front sprocket will increase your wheelbase, a larger rear sprocket will decrease your wheelbase. I bet the difference between these two set-ups would be easily measurable.Just something to ponder....
Full Yosh - PCII - K&N - Protek rear sets - Joe V mod - Pair Valve removed - Mobil 1 Synthetic - Shaved subframe - BRG 1/5 throttle - Yellow windscreen - Ministalk signals - Hugger - Manual fan switch - TRE - Gap mod with custom tray - GPS - Krisnett spools - Subrame raised 3/4" - 12 volt plug - Rear brake reservoir in tail - M1 Metzlers - Powerlet lead - Extended drain hose - Quick release seat & tank - Top gun undertail with clear lenses - Clock/Thermometer - License plate on swingarm - Belly
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