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Removing Engine to Powdercoat frame

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  • Removing Engine to Powdercoat frame

    How easy or hard is it to drop the engine and get the frame powdercoated? I'm hoping to keep the bike and make this a winter project. If it's too much of a pain in the balls, I'll just mask everything off and spray it with Chassis black or the Por15 stuff
    SOLD! 2002 Suzuki TL1000R - Blue/White
    Two Brothers Exhaust - YAFMS Remap - Ohlins Rear Shock - FSMD Undertail - Rear Hugger - No-Cut Frame Sliders - Custom Airbrushed Solo Tail Cowl


  • #2
    i think its just 6 bolts and 4 wires and it just falls right out..........wait, maybe thats a 1968 VW bug . ask Jim Brewer.......he has the all time record i believe.
    2002 TLR B/W . Yoshimura bolt on Titanium cans. Yosh box remap. Joe V airbox mod. plug in TRE. 17/41 sprockets. Zero Gravity double bubble screen. fan switch. HyperPro steering damper. Extreme Graphic Top Gun undertail. Ohlins rear shock.

    Gear: Arai Quantum f. Joe Rocket GPX 1pc suit. Alpinestars Super Tech boots. Alpinestars GP-1 gloves----always wear it all

    <a href="http://www.wunderground.com/US/CA/San_Ramon.html">
    <img src="http://banners.wunderground.com/banner

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    • #3
      How hard is it? Well you basically have to remove every piece off of the bike, including bearings and send the bare frame to the powdercoater. Every piece of your bike will be scattered around the garage until you get the frame back and then you have to hand assemble the bike. Route hoses and wiring, etc. You better have some good tools and the special sockets to remove the engine and swingarm. How hard depends on your skill level, I'm sure some people could disassemble in a day and reassemble in a day a friend wouldn't hurt either. I'm not sure of your skill level though, for instance how long would it take you to swap out an exhaust?

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      • #4
        sounds like alot of work, i think you should just go with the other options.imo seeing my brand new bike in 1000 parts dosnt sit too well with me,ima go with the other options.good luck if your gonna dissamble your bike.
        MY MODS:
        Ackrapovic Evo II full exhaust Head Work,Flowed injectors,Port /Polish exh and intake.cams,subframe,projector headlights,gap mod,Undertray,air/oil breather,pair valve removal,black frame Earth grounding mod . Dynojet PowercommanderII: (Custom Map by Orient Express):Galfer Wave Rotors Front & Rear: Pyramid Hugger:GSXR1k rear brake:A.T.R.E,Galfer Steel braided lines Front & Rear:TLS Cable Clutch Conversion:Woodcraft clipons:Vortex top triple clamp: DID Erv2 gold 520 conversion: Spocket Specialist Titan Tough Sprocket 17/41:GSXR tail: Nocut Frame Sliders:Air Tech Black Chrome Windscreen:LP Carbon Mirrors:Raised Tail 3/4" Ohlins Steering Damper:BRG 1/5 Throttle:GP Tech Fairing Bracket: Clear Alternative tail light:Black rims, ProTeck rearsets.gixxer 1k fender.Bitubo shock,custom projector headlights Race plastics and air tubes by AK composite 3/4 tail rasier custom made by TLDV8
        Going For 440 wet weight.136 +HP. 72 +TQ

        TO BE CONTINUED

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        • #5
          If it is going to be a "WINTER" project as in it wont be ridden for a few weeks go ahead and remove everything and do it RIGHT!! Its not hard but a little time consuming. You could have the bike stripped to the frame in a day and then back together in another day. Jus ttake your time and take notes on where everything goes. Also very very important get a service manual for torque specs!!!! Have fun and post pics during the project!!! I wish I would have taken more pics while mine was apart!
          http://media.damnfunnypictures.com/dfp/fg_14.gif
          My sig image busted the height and size limits.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by dragonbro
            ask Jim Brewer.......he has the all time record i believe.
            My last engine installation took about 2 hours with help from an experienced friend. He did the top & right sides, I did the front, back and left sides.

            That's on a race prepared TLR, though. A streetbike would be MUCH harder!!
            MRA Rider Rep; '99, '03, & '05 MRA SuperTwins GTO champ; Big Stick Racing

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            • #7
              If you've got a video camera keep it handy. If a picture is worth a thousand word, video is a cool million. Roll tape when ever you're about to disassemble something that doesn't come across as overly intuitive.

              Trust me. When I go about tearing the bike down this winter I'm going to tape every minute. Well, not every minute, just the important ones...
              TLXR Project Bike:

              Donor '99 TLR, PCII, K&N custom filtration, Sharkskinz Airbox/Ducts, Sebimoto carbon fairings with dual projectors, QBCarbon tank and vented front fender, M4 Ti/SS Full Exhaust, BST carbon rims, Pirelli Supercorsa's SC1/2 (190/55 rear), complete '03 GSXR1K front end, AP Racing radial mono-block calipers, Brembo Radial M/C, EBC 320mm Prolite Supersport rotors, GSXR1K rear caliper, Galfer SS lines all-around, CFM clip-ons and rearsets, 520-conv w/DID ERV2 chain, Ohlins rear damper, Ohlins Steering Damper, ZeroG DB screen, Graves fairing stay, Lightech true carbon/Ti mirrors w/custom brackets, Ti caliper & rotor bolts, plenty of black Al bolts, Eurobikes carbon hugger, POR-15 sprayed frame, custom Al undertray, custom quick-release tag bracket, switchable TRE, custom 1/2" subframe risers w/Ti hardware, some other stuff I'm likely forgetting...

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              • #8
                should I, should I not :dunno I'm with you crusher


                againplus some?
                TLOTM:
                May 2003
                August 2004

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                • #9
                  Seems like a lot of winter projects are gonna be happening!

                  I'm there too...
                  I have some acid marks on the swingarm and fuel marks on the frame (I crashed it once and prolly the previous owner did so at least once also).
                  So I'm looking into polishing or coating.

                  Polishing seems to be even worse, thinking of labour hours.
                  And expensive, and a lot of extra to maintain afterwards...

                  I'm prolly just gonna go with the POR-15 or black Chassis stuff which is easier to do myself, cheaper, and requires less maintenance afterwards.
                  8'm just not sure yet about doing the whole thing inside out, or just the visible parts so that I won't have to disassemble the whole thing.

                  Prolly, just as a challenge for myself, I'll go for the first option...
                  If You're Not Living On The Edge, You're Taking Up Too Much Space


                  [SIZE=1][B][COLOR=firebrick]
                  Show Mods: HammerIt TLR/R Fairing, Tail and Undertail, Hugger and Fender * Custom

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                  • #10
                    It appears as though the winter projects are quite similar across the board

                    But if I am lucky winter won't come this year and we will be riding right through, or maybe not

                    My buddy stripped his frame down last year and got it all polished without too much trouble so my Tiller should be in good hands for the chassis powdercoating.
                    Galfer braided lines throughout, ATRE, UFO tailight, ET79 Undertail and Hugger, 520 16/39 Gold Chain combo, Full Yosh C/F exhuast, Corbin seat, Ohlins Steering Damper, Ohlins Rear Suspension, Tinted Double Bubble Windscreen, Sylvania Superwhites, Yosh Box Remapped and all protected by GORILLA Alarm System

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                    • #11
                      yes, winter projects....

                      hey crusher, how long again did it take you to put on that M4 system? j/k

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                      • #12
                        I'd just tear it apart and worry about the details later. If you want to do it, DO IT! I just dismantled, powdercoated, and reassembled one of my CBR's and it was a piece of cake
                        It may be that your sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a bad example.

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                        • #13
                          My skill level is not that great, I feel comfortable changing the oil and filter and removing the fairings, but that's about it. It took me 12 hours to swap out the stock exhaust and put the full M4 on there

                          Looks like removing the fairings and masking everything off and painting all the visible parts of the frame and swingarm will be the safest choice
                          SOLD! 2002 Suzuki TL1000R - Blue/White
                          Two Brothers Exhaust - YAFMS Remap - Ohlins Rear Shock - FSMD Undertail - Rear Hugger - No-Cut Frame Sliders - Custom Airbrushed Solo Tail Cowl

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Just be sure to label the bolts and take lots of pics.


                            It's really not that hard Crusher
                            TLOTM:
                            May 2003
                            August 2004

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                            • #15
                              I would recommend the teardown if you're serious about it. You WILL have to pull everything apart though, and I do mean everything. Rather do it ONCE right then 1/2 ass it and have to do it over.

                              I've pulled the entire Ninja apart, and it goes back together pretty easy. BUT if you're gonna replace anything get all the parts up FRONT. Waiting for a week or two while a seal or a bearing is on order is a biatch.

                              And take pics. lots of pics before and after I took pics of the wiring routing, what electrics went where, how the cooling hoses were run.. EVERYTHING..
                              I've got a huge penis, You've got a huge penis, even Tim over there, yup you guessed it, huge penis. Good, now that that's out of the way, let's go ride

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