TLS Clutch problems

[PeteW]

I took the bike out for a quick ride this morning just to start the day on a good note. The bike was running great, the air was cool and dense and the bike felt really good. On a full throttle run up second the bike started to power wheelie (not a short feet since I am about 265lbs), I was really loving the bike. Then it started to happen. It didn't hit me at first but I soon realized that in third gear if I would roll into the throttle hard the clutch would spin, get warm and then hook up. I would always accelerate, even when the clutch was slipping, but it was very noticable that it was slipping bad. I checked my clutch adjuster and that is where it should be, but I always noticed my bikes clutch engages at the very last moment. The clutch engages and disengages in the very first 1/4" of stroke. I tried adjusting it so it would be better but there is no free play to work with. I have a feeling my clutch is shot. The guy who owned it before me must of road the piss out of the clutch. The bike doesn't even have 3k miles. What should I do? Should I just get a '99-up TLS clutch or TLR clutch to upgrade to the 6 spring system, or is the stock one fine with new plates and heavy springs? If I do get the newer TLS clutch what do I need (basket, etc)? I would like to beef this thing up, since it is having problems with 2900 miles on it. If you guys think it is something other than a beat clutch, let me know. Thanks for the help. Oh, by the way. I still love the bike.

[horkn]

good you still love the bike. i have had no slipping probs on mine and i have 12k on her now. (bought it in march with 6k). but i am comtemplating the 99 and up clutch too. well at least beefier springs. i know some guys have just the beefier springs and it solved their probs...

[TL4LIFE]

Had a 97 TLS exact same problem. Barnett HD Clutch Springs they were like $15 took 20 minutes to install and No more slippage

[Steve TLS]

HD Springs,
OEM plates
New cam set

Slippage gone? Not quite. But it's not too bad, I can make it slip if I want to. But it's not really a problem although I'd love no slippage at all under any circumstances other than pulling the lever. http://home.iprimus.com.au/stevebm/clutch.htm

[PeteW]

Thanks for the info guys. Where do your clutches engage? I had an R1 before this and it engaged more towards the middle of the lever stroke (where I like it). This one engages so late I find myself reving the motor more trying to find the clutch. Is mine engaging so late because it is worn, or is that normal for the TLS. Thanks.

[Steve TLS]

Because of my slippage, I have mine adjusted so the clutch starts to pick up virtually as soon as I start to let the lever out. If I was to loosen it off anymore, neutral becomes too hard to find.

Have you checked the adjustment and position os the worm drive lever? Do a search, there is a recent thread when kwikryder converted his TLR hydraulic clutch to a TLS cable type. The worm drive adjusting specs are in that thread.

As the plates wear the clutch needs to be adjusted to suit. You might have a case of it just needing backing off seeing as you have no bite until 1/2 lever travel. When they wear the pressure plate moves further in, so the actuating push rod has to move further out, if your worm drive actuator is stopping if from moving further out the plates might not have full pressure on them.

[Vee-twn]

Steve, your write ups are just great! Going to switch to the heavier clutch springs next weekend! Hopefully it will be better after it's done. I also believe that a partly synthetic(?) oli is better in the TL then a fully synthetic, clutch wise that is... Just my opinion

[Steve TLS]

Thanks

Oil might play a part, but I had problems before I ever ran a full synthetic oil, and I've only ever used a motorcycle specific oil :dunno

[JarkkoT]

You can change springs without draining the motor oil, just tip the bike little more to the side and open it up.. Makes it really fast spring swap...

Oil plays part of that, some bikes slip with 10w-50 oil, but not with 10w-30(40) oils. That cool air also can make oil denser and bike can also have more power, because air is denser..

My problem was solved with EBH? 10% harder spring set, with original plates. Those spring feel a lot firmer to the clutch handle. Original is just soft...

JT

JT

[Stabber]

Put in Barnett springs and if it still slips put in OEM plates.

[Vee-twn]

Originally posted by Steve TLS
Thanks

Oil might play a part, but I had problems before I ever ran a full synthetic oil, and I've only ever used a motorcycle specific oil :dunno

I do believe that the oil plays a quite significant part in the slipping issue...
Before this season I ran with a partly synthetic oil (Motul 5100)and didn't have any problems with the clutch. So this spring I got the Motul 300V full synthetic oil on recomendation from the grease monkey in the local store and the clutch started to slip almost immediately

Go figure!!

[Steve TLS]

I've had slippage on mineral, part synthetic and full synthetic oils so I haven't had first hand experience with oil vs. slippage or no slippage.

[horkn]

yep. my opinion too. thats why i only use semi synth. too many stories like yours floating around

[Vee-twn]

Originally posted by horkn
yep. my opinion too. thats why i only use semi synth. too many stories like yours floating around

I'm going back to the semi synthetic as it seems to work well with my bike atleast...

[Stabber]

Synthetic oil isnt what it making your clutch slip. Weak springs or a worn clutch is whats doing it.