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Help A Brother Out !! ??

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  • Help A Brother Out !! ??

    I just changed the rear pads for the first time on my TLR. I opened the bleed screws to depress the pistons and must of sucked in some air in the process. Now of course no rear brake.
    I can't seem to get the air bled out.

    Can someone help me out!! What's the trick?

    I pump the lever about 10 times and hold down, then open a bleed screw and retighten, then release the lever. There doesn't seem to be any air comming out. The pistons just won't pump back up.


    Thanks,

  • #2
    a mighty vac would help a lot. did you still have fluid in the resevior?

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    • #3
      might vac??

      Leo Vince F/S? K&N filter PCII Switchable TRE Goodridge SS lines w/ six pots Extreme Graphics Undertail Pyramid Hugger Coerce Sprocket Cover

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      • #4
        yes, mighty vac. its a brake bleeder. around 30 bucks...

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        • #5
          Is a mighty vac the same as a Speed Vac?

          Gadget - I think you have to do it more than ten times. If you have air in the lines, it is going to take some effort.

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          • #6
            when you pump the rear brake lever, are you getting any resistance or does it just stay real easy? without some kind of vac (i have an old vampire pump used for taking oil samples in the army), you are going to have alot of pumping to do. since it is the rear brake (assuming the front brakes are fine), you may want to take it out for a spin. the vibration can often shake the bubbles up to the reservoir. big bubbles are harder to clear out though.

            2000 tillis plus stuff with some polished stuff and some carbon fiber stuff and a little bit of tlr stuff and some gsxr stuff

            CLICK HERE to donate a couple dollars/rubles/won/yen/euro/pounds/francs/etc to the greatest forum on the web!
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            • #7
              I have only bleed the front bakes and it took more than 10 pumps to get some resistance. Keep pumping then release bleeder.
              I know nothing about bikes.

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              • #8
                Run a small piece of tubing over the nipple and into a cup/reservior then pump until you see no bubbles come out and through the tube. Tighten with an open end.

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                • #9
                  Thanks for the replies guys. No I don't have a bleed gun. And no I havn't pumped them to where I've had any firmness come back; It just goes to the bottom every time. I'll go back and try some more I guess. Maybe I'll crank it up for a few minutes to see if the vibes will dislodge some air bubbles.

                  Be back in a little while.........................

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                  • #10
                    That sux! Next time just pull the cap off and do not open the bleed screw. You dont have to if your just changing the pads.

                    My site.
                    www.tacoma.gixxer.com

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                    • #11
                      heres an idea....you live close to seca..go to his shop and have him do it! I'm sure he wont mind. I would help you but i dont have a clue about bleeding brakes....i think i'm gonna send seca a pm about doing mine.

                      2001 TL1000R

                      Carbon Kevlar gsxr1000 solo tail w/ r6 taillights/hammerit tlr/r kit/ full yosh w/ carbon cans/ attack rearsets/ hermit dragon exhaust hangars/Stainless braided brakelines front and back/ EBC HH pads/ BMC race filter/ PC2/ metzler sporttech tires/ carbon here and there/ racelite fairingstay/ Olhins steering damper/ Polished frame, swingarm, subframe................STILL A PILE OF SHIT


                      "Johnson sprinkle some crack on'em and lets get out of here!"

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                      • #12
                        No dice. Pumped hundreds of times with no effect.

                        What next?

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                        • #13
                          Yeah I guess I can run it up to Tara Motorsports in the morning

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                          • #14
                            here's the prob. you have a huge air bubble in eitherr the mc or the caliper itself and everytime you pump, the fluid that is being pushed just compresses the air bubble. it might help to unbolt the mc and the rearset and put the mc lower than the caliper (leave the reservoir hooked up and full-make sure it stays upright so no more air gets sucked into the mc). i would try putting the rear on a stand and the reaset on the floor, that way the mc is as far below the caliper as possible. then start pumping. once you get some pressure being pumped by the mc, the fluid will force that air up to the bleeder. get the leaver stiff before releasing the bleeder and make sure to hold the lever down when releasing the bleeder

                            2000 tillis plus stuff with some polished stuff and some carbon fiber stuff and a little bit of tlr stuff and some gsxr stuff

                            CLICK HERE to donate a couple dollars/rubles/won/yen/euro/pounds/francs/etc to the greatest forum on the web!
                            "Aerodynamics are for those who fail to make HORSEPOWER!"
                            -Enzo Ferrari-

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                            • #15
                              you should be able to find a large syringe at an auto parts store. if you attach a small tube to the end of the (plastic) syringe and then to the bleeder screw you can draw the fluid out and the air should come with it. make sure you don't let the reservoir run dry.
                              Last edited by dragonbro; 10-14-2003, 11:33 PM.
                              2002 TLR B/W . Yoshimura bolt on Titanium cans. Yosh box remap. Joe V airbox mod. plug in TRE. 17/41 sprockets. Zero Gravity double bubble screen. fan switch. HyperPro steering damper. Extreme Graphic Top Gun undertail. Ohlins rear shock.

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