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F1... ?? (help...)

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  • F1... ?? (help...)

    The display showed a "F1" today.

    Turned of the key again, and on again and the "F1" was gone.

    I have read something about "F1" in the manual. But I didn´t really understand what it meant. More than "Go to your Suzzi dealer for reapair a.s.a.p.".
    But, it never showed again. Run a bit, stopped. Turned the key, no "F1". did that a few times. No "F1" again.

    Should I get worried?
    I had it on the rearstand (?) the last two days. But, that couldn´t be the reason for the "F1".

    BTW - what the F**K does "F1" means??

    I don´t have time for shit like this now. Im going on a trip, supposed to have a nice weekend with J-Bone and som other friends.
    Last edited by PutteLiten; 08-01-2003, 04:15 AM.
    TL1000R -99. Yellow/Black.
    M4 Full system(Alu), K&N Filter, TRE mod, removed Pair valve. Yoshimura clutch cover, removed Scissor gears, Carbon fibre hugger, carbon fibre rearhugger, HammerIt TLR/R fairings, Gilles Toolings rearset. Pazzo racing levers, shorties, Öhlins rear, Brembo front brakes, ET79 undertail, blah blah blah...
    ------------

  • #2
    and you're sure the kill switch was on?

    -

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by crashtd
      and you're sure the kill switch was on?

      -
      Yes!

      If you have the Kill switch. It says "Check"....
      I know that now...
      TL1000R -99. Yellow/Black.
      M4 Full system(Alu), K&N Filter, TRE mod, removed Pair valve. Yoshimura clutch cover, removed Scissor gears, Carbon fibre hugger, carbon fibre rearhugger, HammerIt TLR/R fairings, Gilles Toolings rearset. Pazzo racing levers, shorties, Öhlins rear, Brembo front brakes, ET79 undertail, blah blah blah...
      ------------

      Comment


      • #4
        Next time it comes on you need to bridge out the dealer mode switch, (do a search for its location) before turning it off and read the code. I have a list of the codes here. http://home.iprimus.com.au/stevebm/TLS_ECU.htm I have on very rare occassions had the C22 Atmospheric pressure sensor come up. Hmm only in the hills
        "I spent most of my money on Scotch, women and cigarettes. The rest I just wasted"

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Steve TLS
          Next time it comes on you need to bridge out the dealer mode switch, (do a search for its location) before turning it off and read the code. I have a list of the codes here. http://home.iprimus.com.au/stevebm/TLS_ECU.htm I have on very rare occassions had the C22 Atmospheric pressure sensor come up. Hmm only in the hills

          Tools/add favourites...


          Thanks!!!

          TL1000R -99. Yellow/Black.
          M4 Full system(Alu), K&N Filter, TRE mod, removed Pair valve. Yoshimura clutch cover, removed Scissor gears, Carbon fibre hugger, carbon fibre rearhugger, HammerIt TLR/R fairings, Gilles Toolings rearset. Pazzo racing levers, shorties, Öhlins rear, Brembo front brakes, ET79 undertail, blah blah blah...
          ------------

          Comment


          • #6
            Are the Codes for TLS and TLR different.. I went to look up the code in my book.. and saw a bunch of C00-C(some other number)??

            Comment


            • #7
              Same codes, TLS / TLR just the location of the plug is different.
              "I spent most of my money on Scotch, women and cigarettes. The rest I just wasted"

              Comment


              • #8
                Stevo is certainly THE TL guru....
                Yepper, Still Alive.

                Comment


                • #9
                  my guess is it said "FI" not "F1". but the process that Steve talked about is still the same...
                  The trouble with life is there's no laugh track.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by luttersj
                    my guess is it said "FI" not "F1". but the process that Steve talked about is still the same...

                    Uh. Yeah, think you are right there.
                    (I changed the headline... )


                    FI = Fuel Injection? Right?
                    F1= Boring Motrosport dominated by Ferrari/M.Shummie...
                    TL1000R -99. Yellow/Black.
                    M4 Full system(Alu), K&N Filter, TRE mod, removed Pair valve. Yoshimura clutch cover, removed Scissor gears, Carbon fibre hugger, carbon fibre rearhugger, HammerIt TLR/R fairings, Gilles Toolings rearset. Pazzo racing levers, shorties, Öhlins rear, Brembo front brakes, ET79 undertail, blah blah blah...
                    ------------

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I'd like to bring this thread back life because my FI light came on again today.

                      It happened twice under the same sort of circumstances. Cruising along at slow speed in 1st or 2nd gear. Abrupt acceleration, tiny wheely as I pretty much redline it up to 3rd and the FI light came on.

                      So then I guess if I want to find out what pissed my TL off, I would have to pull over and switch to 'dealer mode' by taking a paperclip and bridging the dealermode connections while the bike is still running?

                      I turned the bike off and back on and the FI light disapeared. I'm not familiar with checking the dealermode so if anybody wants to give me a mickey mouse explanation that would be great.

                      Even if someone has an idea of what caused the FI light to come that would be nice too.
                      Sewman
                      1998 TLS - Gutted stock cans, K&N air filter, Yosh remap, -1 front, +1 rear, Switchable TRE

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hey Sewman, there are plenty of faults that can come and wont stop the engine running.

                        It would be nice if it did flash between fault code and temperature when a fault appeared.

                        But, the FI light will come on at a certain temperature, at 120C (248F) or higher the FI LED will light and the display will flicker the temperature symbol, if the temperature exceeds 140C (284F) Whoa! The display blinks "HI" and the FI LED is on. The owners manual does not reccommend running the engine hotter than 120C!


                        Got plenty of oil in it? The FI LED will light and the oil can symbol will flash on low oil pressure, if your level is low, all the oil might have been forced to the rear of the sump and off the pickup on hard acceleration.

                        If it is a senor fault the display alternates between temperature and FI and the LED is lit.

                        here is an interesting one,

                        If the FI led is lit and the display is alternating between the Temperature and FI, the engine will continue to run.

                        If the FI led is flashing and the display shows FI continuously, the bike will not start.

                        (well the second one narrows it down to the fuel pump relay or the crankshaft sensor.)
                        "I spent most of my money on Scotch, women and cigarettes. The rest I just wasted"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          OK the TLS manual page 4-30

                          (Code:)

                          Sensor Start Run Notes

                          Camshaft sensor no yes
                          Crankshaft sensor no no
                          IAP yes yes map fixed to 760mmHg
                          TPS yes yes map fixed to WOT
                          Temp sensor yes yes fixed to 80C 176F
                          IAT yes yes fixed to 40C 104F
                          APS yes yes fixed to 760mmHg
                          Ignition signal 1 yes yes (only #2 cylinder can run)
                          Ignition signal 2 yes yes (only #1 cylinder can run)
                          Injector signal 1 yes yes (only #1 cylinder can run)
                          Injector signal 2 yes yes (only #2 cylinder can run)
                          GPS start yes yes map fixed to 6th gear.
                          Not much help eh?
                          "I spent most of my money on Scotch, women and cigarettes. The rest I just wasted"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Wow! That explanation does make a lot of sense. Now I'll know what to look for if the light ever comes on. I think it may very well be the oil being forced to the back as I boot it because I always run my oil on the low side to avoid oil-in-airboxitis.

                            Thanx steve
                            1998 TLS - Gutted stock cans, K&N air filter, Yosh remap, -1 front, +1 rear, Switchable TRE

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Sewman
                              Wow! That explanation does make a lot of sense. Now I'll know what to look for if the light ever comes on. I think it may very well be the oil being forced to the back as I boot it because I always run my oil on the low side to avoid oil-in-airboxitis.

                              Thanx steve

                              Better to attach the oil dumping to an external can. Thats the way I have it. It´s placed in the seatcowl.
                              I´ll take som pictures, but I don´t have a digital camera, or a scanner so it will take some time before I can post them.
                              TL1000R -99. Yellow/Black.
                              M4 Full system(Alu), K&N Filter, TRE mod, removed Pair valve. Yoshimura clutch cover, removed Scissor gears, Carbon fibre hugger, carbon fibre rearhugger, HammerIt TLR/R fairings, Gilles Toolings rearset. Pazzo racing levers, shorties, Öhlins rear, Brembo front brakes, ET79 undertail, blah blah blah...
                              ------------

                              Comment

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