problems with chrome caliper

[miketlr1000]

I chromed my rear caliper and now i can only ride for 15 minutes before my back caliper and rotor boil my brake on!
I tried to remedy it to no avail. Does anybody know of any possible reasons why this is happening?
Please, i need suggestions! 3 rebuilds later. I also warped a rotor already.

[Marshall]

[tlrcraz1]

Alignment prob? Draggin on bolts?

[Steve TLS]

Did any chrome get into the caliper bore? Sounds like the piston is binding in the caliper.

[miketlr1000]

i dremeled out and sanded the interior bore with 1500 paper, still happened, no bolts touching rotor either.
should the pad ride on the rotor at all when not in use?
I was told by a friend that the chrome retains too much heat and to use ford super blue brake fluid that has a higher temp rating, has anyone heard of this?

[Steve TLS]

The caliper should only get hot while you are actually using the brake. The pads will ride slightly on the rotor, but with very little to no pressure, you should be able to spin the back wheel with hardly any noticable drag.

How hard is it to manually pull the pads back off the rotor? I'm still betting on a binding piston, time for another rebuild. When you rebuild it can you push the pistons all the way home with your hand or are you having to belt or force them in?

[miketlr1000]

no not really, when i re did it last time (today) i just pushed em in.
Another question for ya, when you bleed you bleed the back first right? they don't seem to pull back, i think.

[Steve TLS]

Yep, well I do the inside one first.

Did you touch the rear master cylinder at all? maybe the oil can't get back into the reservoir and the lines are building up pressure?

open one of the bleeders and use something to force the pad off the disk, don't wedge it between the rotor and pad, but between the caliper and pad, notice the pressure required, close the nipple and pump the brakes up, hard. Now try and lever the pad off the rotor and notice the force required.

Does it come off with the same force, more force, or wont come off at all?

If there is a difference between bleeder opened and bleeder closed, I'd be looking at the master cylinder. If the force is the same, I'm sticking with a binding piston.

[miketlr1000]

thanks for the wisdom, i did chrome the master also and installed a stainless line, i think i might have a alignment problem, too chrome on the stay and caliper mounting surfaces, i will go back and try what you told me,
Thanks again, PS if i can help with any electrical questions let me know, that's my expertise!

[Steve TLS]

No probs! Mines, electrical too!

If you had the mc done as well, it is possible it is the piston in that, it could be binding and not returning properly when you release pressure off the brake lever.

It could cause the lines to stay pressurised a bit and make the pads to bind onto the rotor / not release properly.

If you've rebuilt the caliper several times, tackle the mc now.

[miketlr1000]

I think i fixed it today! i replaced the mc today and the brakes released fine, so i tore the chrome 1 apart, their are 2 holes where the reseviour meets the mc, one hole is for reserve fluid to come into the system and the other is for fluid to be returned to the reseviour when you release the brake, this hole is very small, about 1/32". I thought it was clear when i put it together, i was wrong, it had some chrome in it! I opened it up and the pistons released the way they should, 4 rebuilds later!
After the rain stops, i will try er out!

[TLSBill]

Good catch.. !

[Steve TLS]

Success!

[Guest]

another TL back on the road, good work boys!

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[SDTLR]

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