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guys scuffed up my bike in a fall....want to repaint my red tls flat black....can i do this myself? No paint exp but have access to a paint gun. what would the process be?sand off paint , prime then paint? ne advice much appreciated, sorry not more in detail broke my wrist in the wreck and hard to typeSo?Tags: None
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Hey Bud!
You most definately can paint your TL yourself. It won't be difficult at all, especially with the color you have chosen.
You will NOT have to sand off all of the stock paint. Factory paint is a great foundation for new paint. Sand down the scuffed area's thouroghly using 360 grit wet/dry Sandpaper. Any deep scratches that remain can be taken care of with Urethane primer filler. This is a catalized primer (it has an activator) and needs to be sprayed out of a gun. Sand the entire panel till it is dull before priming to ensure a good grip.
Let the primer dry for a day then sand it using the 360 grit paper again. You may want to spray a light dust coat of black spraycan paint or primer over the scratched area before sanding. This is called a "guide coat". The black will settle into the deepest scratches and show you where you need to sand the most. Simply keep sanding until you can't see black anymore.
Next, sand the entire panel again till it is smooth and free of texture. You can spray paint directly over both the Urethane primer and exposed stock paint. You do NOT need to buy a primer sealer...the salesman will try to sell you a sealer and tell you it is nessesary...but it is not. You do NOT need any flex additive for your fairings either, as long as you use high quality paint as your final coat.
Since you are looking for a flat black finish, I suggest using a black EPOXY primer instead of paint. It is flexible, and very durable once dried. It's cheaper than paint, but just as strong.
Hope this helped,Your Friend in Sport,
Edwin
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you should be able to just scuff up the original paint and then spray the flat black on. practice on something else for a coat or two, and it will all be fine. make sure to wipe the bodywork down with fish eye reducer, or plain automotive thinner, then after it dries, take a tack cloth and go over all bodywork. then paint. pay careful attention to the mixture amounts for reducer and the paint. (temp specific). make light easy coats, and lots of them. wait a minute or two in between coats, and just be really careful. i'm sure i left something out, but thats pretty much about it...
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Freakinheat,
The paint you used is a "Basecoat". It isn't made to stand alone, it is made to deliver color, but needs to be cleared to become weather resistant. Another risk is, basecoats are designed to soak in whatever paint (clear) is applied to it. This is another reason why it's not a good idea to use a base as a top coat. It will soak in everything that gets on it. road tar, chain lube, oils and other contaminants. This will make repainting the bike difficult the next time around.
Basecoats will break down if not covered with a clear. It will literally burn off from the suns rays.
Several paint companies offer a "Flat" clearcoat. These are used on Semi-trucks hoods to cut down glare. They will offer protection as well as the flat look you are looking for.
Low gloss paintjobs are maintained in a different way than gloss jobs. No polishing is nessesary or even advised. Washing the bike with a mild detergent is all that is needed to keep it looking good.
I highly recommend using catalized paints whenever painting anything on your bike. Without catalist, the paint will be vulnerable to solvent damage and premature fading. Hope this helped.Your Friend in Sport,
Edwin
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