new clutch still sliping

[mudduck9]

I just installed new barnett clutch. Its still slipping. Not bad but if you get on it it slips. I seen a post of the inner part you need to grind to resurface it. Now I can't find it. Anyone know the link? Thanks

[cyclecamper]

Re: new clutch still sliping

The ring-in had a writeup on tlplanet.
But if it were me, I'd just go spend $150 to get the clutch cam set from RonAyers.com

[cyclecamper]

Re: new clutch still sliping

Also, I hope you didn't get the '98 clutch pack, from either Barnett or Suzuki. The late-model clutch pack has 2 more plates and fits any 6-spring hub and basket...much much much better. You may be able to analyze the different plates and just buy a few to get the same benefit and still convert to the extra-plate pack for less money. I don't know why the heck they even still sell the early-model clutch pack, they should make it superceded and stop selling it.

The problem probably wasn't the clutch plates in the first place, as the cam sets ususally wear out about 4 times beofre you need a new clutch pack.

The Barnett springs are great, and the plates are nice if you need more coefficient of friction but they wear out faster than stock and the early green ones would shed friction material and contaminate your oil. If you use Barnett plates change your oil twice as the plates break in. Most people get good results from new cam set, stock plates seem to last almost forever, Barnett springs, and the late-model extra=plates pack with a 6-spring hub and basket. That usually works unless you need drag-race starts or a true road-race slipper.

[cyclecamper]

Re: new clutch still sliping

Did it slip, then eventually grab when the cams actuated? If so, the cams are at the heart of the problem.

Never over-shim the springs. Make sure that when the cams actuate and retract the spring-posts to tighten the springs, the must not coil-bind as they tighten. If they look OK but then coil-bid when the cams actuate, then the clutch explodes and usually breaks the engine cases.

[mudduck9]

Re: new clutch still sliping

With previous clutch you could get on it in like 5th or 6th hard to pass. The rpm would jump up 500. But I usually would get off it. But I think it did reingage. It will not pull front wheel off the ground. It will get rite there just almost then slip. Not wanting to shell the clutch so it slips I get off the gas.

[mudduck9]

Re: new clutch still sliping

Took it back apart. I don't see anything wrong. I was going to take the backlash spider apart and take a look and the nut has a punch mark holding it. I can't get it off the shaft am afraid I'm going to f it up. Tried to get a screw driver in between the dimple and shaft. Put back together and maybe a bit better. What if the p plate bolts were to tight or loose what would happen?

[The Ring-In]

Re: new clutch still sliping

just undo it .

the dimple will bend out by itself.

punch it back in when you do it up

[mudduck9]

Re: new clutch still sliping

Is it a reverse nut or standard?

[Sam]

Re: new clutch still sliping

Here's a sticky thread I posted on TLZ

There are 2 Barnett kits, fit the wrong one with your original steels and you'll have problems.

This chart is made from the Barnett Document but gives a good explanation of what year TLS's and TLR's had what quantity and type of plates.

The early TLS's had 2 thicker steel plates mid pack (2mm instead of 1.6mm)

The Later TLR went to 0.2mm thinner steels and added an extra steel and friction plate. The later friction plates are a different part number (pressumably thinner), so don't buy those for the early model or your pack height will be too thin and the pressure plate will bottom out on the centre hub and your clutch will still slip

If you remove 9 friction plates and your kit comes with 10 then you know you have the wrong kit, unless you go buy 9No thinner steels and use all 10 friction plates, therefore upgrading to the later design.

[mudduck9]

Re: new clutch still sliping

I got the 9 pack. I didn't get new steal plates though. They look fine no ware. When I originally took it down I noticed that the clutches are the same. So it already had a barnett kit in it. It has done it ever since I bought it. I am going to change the oil to non synthetic. I'm going to take it back apart and check the back lash and wipe the plates down. I may in a few weeks just go buy new suzuki clutch kit and use the barnett springs. If I can't figure it out.

[Sam]

Re: new clutch still sliping

I got the 9 pack. I didn't get new steal plates though.

If you mean 8+1 slim friction plate then your steels should be the 1.6mm thick versions, if they are the 1.4mm thick ones then thats your problem, the clutch pack is 1.6mm too short and there is a danger the pressure plate is bottoming out on the centre hub and not applying enough pressure to the clutch pack.

[mudduck9]

Re: new clutch still sliping

I take it back apart and mike it today. Yes the 8+1 for 98 tlr is what I got and that is what I took out. Ill go ahead a take it all apart and mike every thing. I'm going to change the oil today so what's a few more bolts. Thanks

[cyclecamper]

Re: new clutch still sliping

I got the 9 pack.

Too bad. The extra plates are a really good thing, definitely the way to go, and that new pack will fit the old hub and basket as long as you go to the proper steel plates too.

And 90% of the time the real problem is the clutch cams and not the friction discs, so just replace the clutch cams. Did you mic the original friction discs that you had to begin with? What made you think they were bad? the fact you cahnged to new plates pretty much indicates the problem is probably not the plates to begin with, but the cams that tighten the springs more when you get on it.

[mudduck9]

Re: new clutch still sliping

I miked the steal all of them were 1.62. Except the last one it was 1.55. The new disk veryed a bit 3.30 to 3.35 on all the fiber disk

[Sam]

Re: new clutch still sliping

Check the clutch slave cylinder isn't all gunged up and sticking, then as cyclecamper says it could be the cam set in the clutch. It relies on that to add up to 5mm extra spring preload under acceleration, if the ramps are gauled and not working freely then you won't have sufficient spring pressure.

The option is the replace them, grind them better (search for Ring-Ins thread on TLZ) or weld up the unit and add spring spacers.

I assume you are already running stronger springs ? If you are using EBC springs throw them as hard as you can over your shoulder, within a very short space of time they end up weaker than stock springs, Use Barnetts, they are 20% stiffer