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1999 Suzuki TL1000 Motor on craiglist

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  • 1999 Suzuki TL1000 Motor on craiglist

    is this good deal? what would be quick way to check the engine isn't bad at the spot?

    1999 Suzuki TL1000R "Good Condition and Runs strong, Frame is straight.NO DENTS Call 310 200 8820 or 310 995 1281 @@@ The Frame and Motor have been Serperated @@@ I have Motor Ready to Go with no Harness or Throttle Body's for 600.00 has 18,000 miles on it,Barley broken in and the Frame For 600.00 No LOW BALLERS.... No I'm not taking 800.00 for both if that cross's your mind.

    Last edited by nosajnil; 10-06-2010, 03:00 AM.

  • #2
    Re: 1999 Suzuki TL1000 Motor on craiglist

    van had a motor for sale with a ccc and plate for 650 you might right him and see if he still has it
    2003 TL1000R Yellow/Black
    Full Carbon M4 Exhaust, Marchesini's 5 Spoke Magnesiums, SuperSprox 17-41 , LE Penske Rear, Scotts Steering Damper, .90kg Fork Springs, Race Tech Gold Valves, Fp Folding Tactical Levers , D3 Clip ons & Grips, Pc 3 Dynojet , Galfer SS Brake & Clutch Lines, K&N Filter, Joe V Mod, Pair Valve Mod, Fender Eliminator, Speedohealer, GI Pro Atre , Zero Gravity Dubble Bubble, Corbin Seat,(Vans CCC,Plate,Triple,Rear Brake Reservoirs,1mm Swingarm)


    • #3
      Re: 1999 Suzuki TL1000 Motor on craiglist

      Or just buy mine for 2K ...Big bore with all the right parts and vans CCC and plate for 2K. About 3K miles on it.


      • #4
        Re: 1999 Suzuki TL1000 Motor on craiglist

        That's a fair price from an individual; 200 less than a professional breaker would charge. Miles are OK and might bring more but it's an early 2nd-year TLR and might bring less and less as these get older. Has the rear spigot and starter, but is missing the TBs, so it have everything you need for easily replacing an engine in another bike. And remember, you can get back 3/4 of this from selling a blown one. Might have the early 6-spring clutch pack, but the better extra-plate clutch pack will drop right into that 6-spring hub and basket. It's actually a good sign to find he's parting it out and not replacing the engine with a better one, and it's also a good sign that the frame is intact.

        The best thing you can do is find out whether he did a lot of long wheelies.

        Check the engine number and ask to see the title it went with. The only time I got burned buying a TL engine was when the numbers were ground off.

        You can open the inspection hole in the alternator and turn it back and forth with a wrench, listening for any rod clunk, but you won't hear it unless it's really really bad. You might be able to crank it until the piston is descending, then push on the piston with a hard wooden stick thru the spark plug hole, and see if it has play, but again that only works if it is really shot.

        You could jump it from your car battery, disable the decompressors, and do a compression check. But in the end you can't tell much, have to trust him and then install and test promptly...but he's not a dealer and you take your chances.
        It's about control skill; this is a motorized dance for joy and not Russian roulette.