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  • problems starting

    Can somebody please help me out:
    I've had my 00TLR for 2 months now and it annoys me because it keeps cutting out when I start it, until it warms up.
    The bike had not been started for 6 months before I bought it. The battery is holding charge ok (checked with meter). I open the choke then thumb the starter, it runs for a few seconds then cuts out, any throttle with the choke in or out and it will cut out. It will do this up to 6 times until it warms up.
    Any suggestions
    Retired the TLR for a Gixxer 1K. Sorry boys I sold you out

  • #2
    If you have a power commander try adding some fuel at the 500 rpm @ 0, 2, 5% throttle opening. I did this to mine the other day it fires right up. Might want to check your plugs. Might want to check the TPS. Clean the air filter too and make sure the box is sealed. Technically the bike does not have a choke, it's really a fast idle.
    Don't know how it works? Take it apart and find out!

    Pictures

    Here's how it sounds.

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    • #3
      Thanks
      The bike is stock except for the Yoshi slip ons. From what you have suggested I think I'll give it a good service given that it has been left idle for such a long period.
      Thanks again
      Retired the TLR for a Gixxer 1K. Sorry boys I sold you out

      Comment


      • #4
        TL's are a pretty hard starter to begin with. Might not want to give her full"choke" right away. give half at first crank or two and then give her full. atleast that is what I used to do with my TLS and that worked pretty good. Three times is a charm with the majority needing three starts.

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        • #5
          I agree, mine is very hard starting too. Especially before the PC II was installed. Now it turns over about three times then she comes to life. I put it on fast idle, blip the throttle and give her the go button. I would save every penny for a PC II. I see no huge power increases (non custom map, just a generic one supplied) but it sounds much smoother and every stumble is gone. The map shows a nice rich spot around 4000 rpm and a nice lean spot around 7000. Nothing to worry about, but its well worth the money. I found one at newportcyclepart.com for $269. That's the cheapest I could find. Took about a week. Now I can tune to my wildest dreams. I wonder what would happen if I added 100% fuel and took off the air box.........kidding.

          The plugs are a pain too. Front requires radiator removal/moving and rear requires the tank off. I did mine less than a week after I had it.
          Don't know how it works? Take it apart and find out!

          Pictures

          Here's how it sounds.

          Comment


          • #6
            How much fuel did you add at the 0,2,5 % positions and are you just in the AAP table or did you go to the Manifold Pressure table?
            Yosh RS-3 full system, Top Gun Undertail, Carbon hugger, PCII, 41 tooth rear sprocket, Ohlins Steering Damper, Corbin seat, JoeV Mod, K&N filter, Ivan's TRE, AGP front/rear brake lines, Barnett springs, ZG DB Smoked Windscreen, No-cut frame sliders, short stalk 2-way front blinkers, manual fan switch, Yellow/Black grips
            Other rides-2008 Civic EX-L, 2005 WRX STI (SOLD), 1978 Nova w/406(FOR SALE), 1988 K2500

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            • #7
              I always go fast idle all the way open, crank the throttle half a turn, then fire, works the first time - everytime:dunno

              Dont gas if when it's cranking over. k?

              TLOTM:
              May 2003
              August 2004

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