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Lowering levers?

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  • Lowering levers?

    Went out for a nice blast today. A group of about 20 (too many but it went well) and one said rider was new to the group. He was riding a Ducati 996 that he had bought off someone who had put it down. There was no body on it but what was there was impressive;

    Marchesini wheels
    Rear wave rotor
    Upgraded 6 pots
    Every bolt/nut was high strength aluminum
    Polished swing arm and tank
    C/F with red inlay weave engine covers and front fender
    Body with same C/F mentioned above currently being made
    A fair list of engine mods (lightening this, porting that, etc...)

    So we stop for a coffe and said rider comes over to my bike, looking around then says, "I know you just met me but I've always wanted to ride one of these, would you like to swap?"

    I spat out my coffee.

    No really, I did!

    So after 15 years of riding I finally rode a Duc and it was amazing. The thing pulled like a train and was planted no matter where I put it. Very responsive and confidence inspiring. A great day.

    Anyway, now to the question. The bike had all it's controls lowered quite a bit. The brake and shifter pedals were really low and I realized that I don't like where they are on the TLS so when I got home I started playing.

    The brake pedal can only be lowered so far before the bolt bottoms out but considering I rarely use the rear it's not a problem. The gear shifter is as far as it will go without rotating the actual linkage, I'll do that tomorrow. The front brake lever is now rotated right down. The problem is the clutch lever. The clutch safety switch limits the travel of the lever so that it can barely be lowered. Has anyone found a way around this? Right now the switch connector is right up against the clipon. What about removing the switch and just splicing the wire?

    Sorry for the long post, had to tell about the Duc!

  • #2
    You need that switch there as it does something to the ecu. If you bridge it, the ecu will think its always in neutral or something checkout Stevetls's page on the topic maybe you could do this mod and then you can rotate them around. I prefer my levers much lower than normal too.


    • #3
      I want a Duc too!!! Maybe when I get my inheritance money
      Don't cha know the Yellow one's are fastest!


      • #4
        I don't have a clutch switch on my bike and never noticed a difference. I have heard people say it lowers the redline, or uses a different ignition map etc. But have yet to see any proof or back to back dyno runs to prove it.
        I certanly could be wrong, just haven't seen it proved yet.
        Last edited by Ryno; 08-18-2003, 09:33 AM.


        • #5
          So no one has lowered the clutch lever on a TLS?!!!!1


          • #6
            Just remove the safety switch bro then lower to your heart's content.

            I'm with ryno, I didn't notice any change:dunno
            May 2003
            August 2004


            • #7
              I'll have to get testing eh? You know there is a definite change in maps though don't you? You've never experienced the difference of a fixed TRE when in neutral and letting the clutch in and out? That's the ECU's difference between 6th gear and neutral, granted it is worse when cold, but the difference is there when it is hot too, but to a lesser degree, still a different map.

              When I get a chance I will test it on the dyno, but until then I don't need a dyno to tell me there is a different map being used when the clutch is pulled (same as bridging the clutch out) why would Suzuki feed the clutch switch into the ECU as well as the hard wiring for starting? Whe nyou bridge it out you not only defeat the starting circuit, you send in input to the ECU.

              Sure guys have bridged their clutch switches out with no ill effects, but if you cut the wiring like the diagram on my webpage there is definitely no change to the ECU, the only difference is you can start the bike without having to pull the lever / be able to remove the switch / bridge out its wiring.
              "I spent most of my money on Scotch, women and cigarettes. The rest I just wasted"


              • #8
                So when you're going down the road shifting through the gears (assuming you're using the clutch) the bike is going from third gear map, to neutral map, to fourth gear map, to neutral map, to fifth gear map etc?
                I don't have a TRE on my bike so can't coment on that aspect.
                Just not convinced that shorting that switch has any affect on how the bike runs.
                You're going to have give me some proof
                Last edited by Ryno; 08-21-2003, 06:40 PM.


                • #9
                  I know, I know, yep I have to get proof. Until I do that it's all hearsay.

                  That happens when you change gear anyway, I've noticed on my gps when in-between gears the ECU gets no reading fo a split second. Those with an ATRE will be able to see the re-map / no re-map LED flick colours between changes.
                  "I spent most of my money on Scotch, women and cigarettes. The rest I just wasted"


                  • #10
                    To lower the clutch loosen the clamp and move it down the bar a little. If you dont like where the shifter/brake sits you can get longer rods. Yank the rear brake light switch out if you need to. I ran my nut all the way down to the flat threads and then tightened everything up.

                    Anyways as far as customizing eveything should be something you do to any new bike. It makes everything easier for YOU to operate. Less movement to be able to reach everything and then your having an all around better ride.