this clutch is killing me

[kscott]

I've re-assembled my clutch twice after it started slipping. Barnett replacemnt parts. and it's worse now than before. It will engage, but completely slips above 10 mph. they only sent me fibers though and I 'm using the stock steels. is that my problem? I'm going to try the two bigger plates from the stock clutch next. where in the stack do you put them? should I have just stuck with factory parts and not gone barnett?

[Steve TLS]

Barnett springs
Barnett plates

You're not alone you know >>> http://home.iprimus.com.au/stevebm/clutch.htm

[Steve TLS]

The bigger plates? You talking about the "thicker" steels? Or bigger fibres?:dunno about bigger fibres. Check my site for the exploded view of the clutch pack. I put the two thicker steels in my pack so I have a total of 4. The new ones are in the correct stock location, the ones I added, I just swapped replaced the last two steels

[kscott]

so should I scrap the barnett parts? I only have the Fibres. what's bad about them? I was trying to get something a lttle more durable than stock. My bike's an '01 TLR. and I think there were 19 plates total--fibres and steels. stock steels though because I never got the replacements. To be honest, I didn't know much about clutches when I ordered the parts, didn't even realize it. I was thinking it was the thicker of the two fibres...I guess it's the thicker of the steels. so I need a new set of steels? and then I'll end up with a total of 4 that are thicker? ( 2 from the old set and 2 from the new? tell me again where in the stack they should go.

[Steve TLS]

TLR! Same sized steels, no thicker ones, they were only for the 5 spring TLS clutches.

It just I've heard the OEM fibres are about as good as they get, and I've seen more than once negative feedback on the Barnett plates.

With the clutch cover off, can you tell that it's definitely engaging fully, something not holding it slightly disengaged?

[kevh]

just went through this on an aprilla with barnett parts (might be the same problem)

he originally had the same prob after installing just the fibers (clutch started slipping at really low speed). then he went and got the full pack (steels and springs too) and we noticed the steels were thicker and the fibers were thinner but when put up against the old stack, they were the same height (minus the wear on the old fibers)

so if you just replaced the fibers you probably have the thin barnett fibers with the thin oem steels and so it isnt fully engaging, stack height too short

[Seca]

barnett plates suck....only use the barnett springs.

[N2wheelies]

barnett SUXXXXX

i think you guys are too hard on barnett.

i got all the slippery clutch issues when i got my TLS. what a pain.

i got a set of barnett springs, replaced a wasted clutch cable and its been fixed for about 8-10K miles at a shot. thats commuting all week and drag racing at the track most saturdays. im past 41K miles now.

ive used both suzuki and barnett plates and both last about the same miles.

the barnetts plates thicknesses are, however, all over the map and sometimes i have had to swap a thin plate for thick one or two... (the tls uses two different thickness steel plates) to make the stack thickness right, like kevh is saying

good luck.

[wreckah]

stock clutchplates, stiffer springs here (and a well-worked-out-lefthand ), 50.000kms , and only now it is starting to slip a tiny bit...
by the way, full synthetic oil.

[yeller_twin]

Might check the clutch on the sprocket side. The part that accuates the clutch, (slave??). I put mine back on last night and got it way to tight, when I went to let the clutch out in gear I got nothing. There are two hex head bolts, the lower one is what gives you adjustment. The top is fix in place by a spacer. Backed it off a turn or two and I was back to normal clutch operation.

[Screwloose]

just a thought...but i was told by someone that you can have problems if you are using the wrong oil...

i was reccomended to use castrol GPS semi synthetic

as regards checking the sprocket side of clutch...is prone to getting full of crud that can interfere with clutch

[Steve TLS]

Originally posted by yeller_twin
Might check the clutch on the sprocket side. The part that accuates the clutch, (slave??). I put mine back on last night and got it way to tight, when I went to let the clutch out in gear I got nothing. There are two hex head bolts, the lower one is what gives you adjustment. The top is fix in place by a spacer. Backed it off a turn or two and I was back to normal clutch operation.

Noooooo!

Do the bolts upto the correct torque spec. If your clutch wasn't engaging after refitting the slave cylinder the effect would only be temporary, eventually the clutch would push the slave piston back in.

My guess is someone gave the clutch lever a pull while the slave was off the bike and sent the piston out too far.

Pull the slave right off, push the piston in by hand (becarefull you don't push it back too far as the reservoir might overflow) put it back on doing the bolts up to spec, at loctite to be sure they wont come loose again, then pump the lever back up a few times for correct clutch operation.

[Jokertlr]

There is no way to ask this without making myself sound dumb but what does it feel like when your clutch is slipping .

[Steve TLS]

Joker, your revs will rise but your bike wont accelerate. Next time you are riding, pull on the clutch lever a bit, just a bit and accelerate, the revs will climb, but you'll go nowhere fast.

(Now don't let the clutch all the way back out again while you're still accelerating you might end up on your ass!)

[Duken4evr]

On a TL, clutch slip will most noticibly kick in when you hit the 7K rpm torque out zone. The revs will rise faster than they should, like the wheel is spinning. Backing off the throttle will let it "hook up" again.

My TLS did this, slapped some Barnett springs in, problem solved. Of course I had to scientifically test it by doing some full throttle runs through the gears. It was in the name of research, after all